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Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side

Brazier Food T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Chili Dog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Faith Healer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five Tree T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Foot Massage, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gomez T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leap Erickson T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leap Year Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leap of Faith T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Look Before You Leap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mojus (aka Slushie), The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morticia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Norm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pat Adams Dihedral T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pugsley S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Snake Oil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tabby Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tofutti T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toxic Waltz T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wednesday's Child T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: (TR): Todd Swain, October 1989 FL: Chris Miller, 1998
Page Views: 1,757 total, 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start up a left-slanting ramp to reach a high first bolt, above which some difficult moves lead onto a somewhat low-angled slab. Delicate moves on small, sometimes friable, flakes give way to a steepening wall with small grey knobs and protrusions that provide entertaining climbing.

Gear belay and then walk right to a rap station located 30' down and right from the top of Leap Year Flake. Note - a 60 meter rope is needed to TR this route.

Varied and fun moves on good rock make this a route to do if in the area.

Location

On the long slabby face just left of Leap Year Flake.

Protection

7 bolts (all 3/8"), several pieces from 1 - 2" for anchors

Photos

Staney
Durango, CO
Staney   Durango, CO
Unless you extend the anchor about 25 feet a 60m will not reach the ground. Sep 20, 2016
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10b
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10b
This route is very quality and sustained for a 10b lead. The first crux involves a side-pull on the edge of a seam next to the first bolt. Highstepping and smearing are helpful here. After a short easy section between bolts 2 and 3, the climbing remains sustained at 10b all the way to the top. imo, 3 stars out of 5. Jun 1, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
Yeah - good climb, especially towards the top. Certainly a must do if in the area. Better than Norm. Dec 7, 2008
tony grice  
 
Nice slab route, Two super fun moves, a worthwhile well protected outind.10b is a perfect rating May 2, 2006
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
This could be considered a sport route, save for the gear needed for an anchor. Aug 26, 2004