Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side

Brazier Food T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Chili Dog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Faith Healer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five Tree T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Foot Massage, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gomez T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leap Erickson T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leap Year Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leap of Faith T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Look Before You Leap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mojus (aka Slushie), The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morticia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Norm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pat Adams Dihedral T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pugsley S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Snake Oil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tabby Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tofutti T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toxic Waltz T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wednesday's Child T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, February 1988
Page Views: 4,297 total, 27/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


99 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb a thin crack with face holds for about forty feet, then step left and undercling/lieback a thin flake that curves up and left ending on a large ledge beneath the previously mentioned corner.

Expect fun climbing on high quality rock in a relatively uncrowded area, as this side of the Dairy Queen Wall sees little action. Well worth doing as along with a number of the other routes here. Two stars out of five.

Location

This fun and somewhat unique climb is located on the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall more or less directly below the prominent, overhanging corner of Pat Adams Dihedral.

Protection

Gear to 2", including wires
I'm a dumbass and left my favorite climbing shoes, an old pair of Anasazi Blancos, at the base of Pugsley which is underneath the rap station for Leap Year Flake. If you have them I'll buy you beer, whiskey, or drugs. If you're clean then I'll name my first child after you.
Charlie
8599487620 Mar 28, 2017
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
 
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
 
This route is a gem! Pure climbing fun. Plenty of feet so you don't have to really pull too hard on the thin flake. I don't think I actually used any layback moves at all. Mar 19, 2017
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
^^^^ actually the anchor at the base of PAD takes 3.5" down to .5" - it's a gem! And agree with Tony, head up with plenty of 1/2" cams or you'll be stuck with either nuts in the flake or running it out. :) Jul 21, 2013
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Just did it.... Good stuff! Med cams to belay right under the Pat Adams Dihedral. Scramble down to rap anchors to climbers right on a slab just past a tree/bush. Jul 21, 2013
Brian Allen
Palm Desert
 
Brian Allen   Palm Desert
 
The thin section protected well with a 0 mastercam or similar. Much thinner than it looked from the bottom. Didn't use anything bigger than a #1 C4. Apr 4, 2013
JSharpe
 
JSharpe  
 
didn't care for the 1st half, but the flake was super cool. rap from chains about 20 ft to your right past the tree. Nov 18, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.7
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.7
I think this is one of my all time favorite 5.7's. It is simply amazingly fun! Definite must do while in the area. Sep 25, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.7
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.7
Agree with Tony Grice on pro. A really great finish up the flake, something to savor. I'd say it's one of the must do 5.7's in The Park. Dec 7, 2008
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
An alternate (and harder) start to this route is to climb Leap Erickson to it's 4th bolt and then cut right on the sloping ledge to reach the base of the flake system. Extending the 1st placement or two will cut down on any rope drag you might otherwise encounter. Oct 5, 2008
seamstress
  5.7
seamstress  
  5.7
The comment "somewhat unique climb" almost scared me off, but it was a sweet little climb. It felt more like a Tuolumne or Tahoe route than JT - smearing & stemming; crack technique not really needed. The flake sounds a bit hollow so check carefully before you place your gear. Nov 26, 2007
tony grice  
 
WOW!!! as fun as 5.7 gets. bring plenty in the .5 size , and a few small wires, if 5.7 is your max. Well protected May 2, 2006
Dynomight510
  5.7
Dynomight510  
  5.7
The pro overall is great however there is one section a bit before you reach the flake that is thin. I used a #3 Camp Ball nutz because a tri cam would not fit. The grade is not beyond 5.7 though.

Shot and sweet. Good moves. Good rock.

Not sustained. Sep 22, 2003