Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side

Brazier Food T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Chili Dog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Faith Healer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five Tree T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Foot Massage, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gomez T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leap Erickson T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leap Year Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leap of Faith T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Look Before You Leap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mojus (aka Slushie), The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morticia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Norm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pat Adams Dihedral T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pugsley S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Snake Oil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tabby Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tofutti T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toxic Waltz T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wednesday's Child T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Dana Adler, Cyndie Bransford, Jim Angione, Brian Haslam, Susan Alford, March 1995
Page Views: 1,775 total, 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


39 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start up a short section of smooth slab with a jagged crack to reach a small roof/overlap (#1 TCU/green Alien here) about 15' up, above which is the first of five bolts. The climb moves slightly right after the second bolt to reach a shallow corner, which is followed up to a small mantleshelf and the third bolt. Above, climb through a lower-angled section and pass a dubious "fixed rurp" before the wall steepens and enjoyable smearing and liebacking on the edge of the flake continues past two more bolts to anchors. The rock is a fine grained gray with the occasional knob, which is a pleasant departure from the more typical oatmeal-colored rock.

This is a fun climb that rarely sees traffic due to it's location on the less popular left side of the DQ Wall. A pleasant area to explore that has an easier and shorter approach than the more frequented right side of the wall. Two stars out of five.

Location

This route is located on the far left side of the Dairy Queen Wall about 50' left of Leap Year Flake, and is identified as a bolted face climb up the face/arete of a large flake lying against the main formation.

Protection

5 bolts (5/16", 3/8"), "fixed rurp", bolted anchor/rap. Optional .4"-.5" cam
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
 
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
 
Interesting moves especially the move getting to the second bolt. Fun route with convenient descent anchors. If you're in the neighborhood you might as well jump on it. Mar 19, 2017
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
Though the rap rings are convenient for descending this and nearby routes, be aware that the bolts are button heads. May 24, 2016
Larry Graham
Boulder, CO
Larry Graham   Boulder, CO
Mar 13, 2014 I just did this today. For the record, the route as shown in the Classic JT Routes book (Vogel 2010) is quite inaccurate. The written description is right on, but the line drawn on both pages 122 and 124 show it moving quite far to the left and finishing well above where it actually does--the tree that is level with the start of Pat Adams dihedral. Otherwise, this "new" guide to Josh is outstanding and though pricey, worth it. Mar 14, 2014
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Did it today. Didn't think much of the route as it is sorta contrived and forced.

Besides that, the RURP is gone, the "runout" is not really a runout, and it is on easy ground. The clip at the end of the runout is sorta awkward and the bolt should be down a half move so you can clip from a secure stance.... the pin at the start should be backed up and depending on where you actually surmount the roof will dictate the grade. It seemed like you could make it 12b or 5.8 depending on how low you wanted to set the bar by moving right.

All in all it is an ok route for a forced, contrived, squeeze job that at some point got archaic points for having a fixed RURP. WTF. I'll go a full .68 stars on this one. Jul 21, 2013
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
small gear placements avail to protect the 1st bolt clip, for above the 2nd bolt, and just before clipping the 3rd bolt Mar 18, 2013
I wouldn't trust my life or ankles to that fixed pin. I believe it's fallen out in the past.

Back it up. Feb 14, 2013
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
Climbed today. There is now a fixed angle piton driven up under the initial overlap, negating the need for a small cam. Higher up, the fixed rurp is gone. Looks like someone may have whipped on it and broken it out of the seam? Anyway, there is now a quite spicy and somewhat serious runout between bolts 3 and 4. Feb 14, 2013
Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
 
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
 
Falcon Guide Jtree West (pg 332) shows the route going all the way to the top of the formation. The route does not go all the way to the top, rather it stops below and left of the highest tree. Dec 30, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
Fun but not as good as Leap Erikson IMHO. Dec 7, 2008
Murf
 
Murf  
 
A undistinctive route not worth the 3 stars in JTWest. Sep 25, 2006
tony grice  
 
awsome route!! well protected, fun moves. A .5 camalot could proctect the opening moves if you should need it. May 2, 2006
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The majority of the bolts are 5/16" but solid and in good rock. Aug 26, 2004