Description

Although the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall shares the same name as the more popular right side, and the two portions are connected, most people are wholly unfamiliar with this lesser visited side. That's too bad as there are some really good routes on this side and the approach is actually easier as well.

The right side of the DQ Wall is characterized by juggy moderate cracks (hence it's popularity) while the left side has smoother greyish rock with the odd black knob. Some of the outstanding routes here include Leap Year Flake (5.7) a unique wafer-thin undercling flake, Get Right Or Get Left (5.9) a hundred foot crack with lots of variety, Norm (5.10a) a fun and well-protected face/arete, Pat Adams Dihedral (5.11b/c) a demanding and overhanging corner and Toxic Waltz (5.12a) a steep and exposed arete to face.

Getting There

Park as for Hemingway Buttress, in the large, paved parking area and follow the signed Access Fund trail towards Hemingway and then cut left to near the base of the wall. Alternately, one can park as for Playhouse Rock, near the Milepost, and follow the marked trail to Playhouse and then cut right to reach the same point near the base of the wall. Once at the base a bit of scrambling is required to access the base of the wall proper; if you hit it right you should come in right at the base of Norm.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

What is the bolted line to the left of Addams Family? The Vogel guide shows Slushie 5.10b to a two bolt anchor half way up the slab. I saw bolts but they continue all the way to the top and there is no bolted belay half way... The upper section looks harder than 10b? Mar 7, 2005
C Miller   CA  
The route in question is called The Mojus (aka Slushie), is rated 5.10c and is already in the route database. The bolts have been replaced and the superfluous belay removed; this route can easily be done in a single pitch. Mar 7, 2005
I'm a dumbass and left my favorite climbing shoes, an old pair of Anasazi Blancos, at the base of Pugsley which is underneath the rap station for Leap Year Flake. If you have them I'll buy you beer, whiskey, or drugs. If you're clean then I'll name my first child after you.
Charlie
8599487620 Mar 28, 2017