Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Rondo Powell & Jo Bentley, 1988
Page Views: 944 total · 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route climbs a smooth slab near the center of the left side and features some difficult smears at the crux. The only gear needed is quickdraws but this isn't a sport route as you'll find out...although perhaps a sport route by J. Tree standards. 100 foot rappel from anchors.

Not a great route but it's long, has some good moves throughout it's length and is rarely done. This is just one of several routes to sample at the lesser known left side of the D. Q. Wall. Two stars out of five.

Location

Climbs a smooth slab just down and left from Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family).

Protection

8 bolts, gear to 2 inches, bolted anchor/rap (all bolts are 3/8")

Photos

MAR
  5.10c
MAR  
  5.10c
I'd bring some nuts or cams (small - med) to protect the runout at the top. There are placements in the crack to the left that you can make before committing to the final face moves to the rap anchors. Nov 1, 2010
Bob Gaines
  5.11a
Bob Gaines  
  5.11a
Climb a beautiful slab past 2 bolts (5.10b/c; well-protected at the crux) then run it out a bit on easier slab (5.7/8) to a steeper section with 3 closely-spaced bolts (5.10+). At the 5th bolt traverse straight left past a 6th bolt over to a crack/corner (optional belay here at the 2-bolt anchor for Pugsley to reduce rope drag).

On this crux traverse you'll encounter poor rock with disintegrating edges. This section is getting harder and harder as holds are getting stripped off and is now more like 5.11. From here climb past 2 more bolts (5.11a) up to a crack (1-inch CD). From here you can move right and up to the 2-bolt anchor for Addams Family (100-foot Rap.)

The original route followed the crack up to the top of Chili Dog, where you'll find a bolt anchor. From here, a <100-foot rap takes you down to the 2-bolt anchor used to descend from Leap Year Flake, then one more (<100 foot) rappel gets you to the ground.

Pro: 8 bolts, gear to 3 inches.

FA: Rondo Powell, Joe Bentley, and Bob Gaines, 1988

The Morticia variation (5.10d) moves right for the 5th bolt, joining Addams Family for its top section. This variation avoids the flakey upper section of Mojus, for a higher quality pitch. Jan 29, 2016