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Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side

Brazier Food T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Chili Dog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Faith Healer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five Tree T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Foot Massage, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gomez T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leap Erickson T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leap Year Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leap of Faith T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Look Before You Leap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mojus (aka Slushie), The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morticia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Norm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pat Adams Dihedral T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pugsley S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Snake Oil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tabby Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tofutti T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toxic Waltz T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wednesday's Child T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tom Beck & Tim Ramsey, 1982
Page Views: 1,753 total, 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb easy terrain to a solitary bolt about 20' up, then continue up a low-angled slab past a grapefruit-sized knob at the base of a vertical headwall with a featured crack. Intriguing moves, as well as textbook stopper slots, will be found throughout this section; higher the route follows a crack in a left-facing corner which affords some nice stemmming and thin jamming. The crack ends about 20' below the anchors, and while possible to climb directly, an easier (and safer) alternative is to cut right about 8' to reach another crack system leading to the anchor. Bolted anchor/rap.

This is an enjoyable route reminiscent of the featured cracks of the upper Dairy Queen Wall, as well as the Shorter Wall in Rock Garden Valley. Three stars out of five.

Location

You'll find this route just up and right from a prominent smooth slab with The Mojus (aka Slushie).

Protection

Bolt (1/2"), pro to 2" (especially small to medium wires), bolted anchor/rap (3/8")
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
this climb eats nuts! Sep 24, 2013
Jorge
  5.9
Jorge  
  5.9
Yes, you can rap with a 60 meter. Apr 18, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9
Better route than it looks from the ground. Fun - mostly low angle climbing with entertaining (but solid) small nut placements. I placed wires, aliens, and up to a #1 Camalot. We made it back to the ground with a 70m rope, and 60m looks like it'll make it too. Apr 14, 2006
Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
  5.9
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
  5.9
There is a good photo of this route in Vogel's guide. We got to it by traversing along the bottom of the wall from the ice cream theme routes farther north (or right). Once you pass through a huge yucca another few feet will bring you to the bottom of the climb. Good sustained 5.9 climbing almost to the belay where it eases off the last 20'. There are also a few nice rests where good gear can be placed. A very nice pitch after warming up on the routes further right and up the wall.

P.S. ...on pro-I used a green alien, and a yellow and blue TCU. Mar 7, 2005