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Routes in Echo Rock - South Face

Belgian Chongo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
British Airways T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Feets Don't Fail Me Now T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
London Calling T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moment's Notice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
My Idea of Fun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Nuts are for Men Without Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pope's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Primal Scream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Raked over the Coles T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roof, the T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rule Britannia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Sole Fusion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sonic and the Hot Dog Water S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Street Sweeper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swept Away T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
T.S. Special T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tucker-Powell T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Charles Cole, 1983
Page Views: 1,643 total · 11/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Sep 12, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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In a large alcove on the south face of Echo Rock, starting near the ground, are three closely space crack routes. This is the center one. It's one of the warmest places in the park on a sunny morning. The climb is a hand and fist crack, with poor protection. I can imagine the route name was Charles' response to a belayer asking why he wasn't placing any nuts.


a standard rack, but there aren't many good placements


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Did this a long time ago, but seem to recall the pro was decent. Sep 14, 2006
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
I thought this crack was quite fun. It can be runout if you dont have a few large pieces, otherwise it protects quite well. There are hidden holds that reveal themselves at just the right time if you look for them in unexpected places. No feet jamming required and lots of hand holds or handjams available. Oct 13, 2008
Rob Donnelly
Riverside, CA
Rob Donnelly   Riverside, CA
Beware: Both Vogel's "Classic Joshua Tree Routes and Bouldering" and Miramontes's "Joshua Tree" guidebooks show this route on the crack to the right of this one. The description is correct in Vogel's but the photo is incorrect in both. We got on Primal Scream (5.10d) thinking it was this climb. "NO way this is 5.8!" Feb 25, 2013
Can't say I ageee with the R rating. I thought the gear placements were plentiful. I brought nuts and .5-3. If you have a 4 bring it as well. Feb 13, 2017

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