Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Craig Parsley & Mike Pope, 1975
Page Views: 29,462 total · 134/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 10, 2002 with improvements by Guy Keesee
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starting from boulders climb the prominent finger/hand crack in a flared right-facing corner which slowly arches up and left passing along the left side of a small roof. A little ways past the roof set a high piece and then downclimb left along a dike to gain another crack system which is followed to the top. Three stars out of five.

To descend work down and right from the top to rappel anchors atop British Airways.

History

The crack was first spotted by Craig Parsley and John Long simultaneously in the Spring of 1975, but a sprint to the wall allowed Parsley and Pope to make the first ascent. Long stood at the bottom of the climb encouraging Parsley to peel so he could "bag a first." The climb was completed with only one piece of protection in the first 20 feet

Don’t wish to edit the whole thing cause you got it sort of correct.... two others were involved, me- Guy Keesee and Dean Fidelman.... Craig and Pope walk by our table and Craig says “come on let’s do a new route, grab your rack” so we do.
We get on it after pushing the sharp yucca at the base over a we bit. I forget who did the first go but we agreed one couldn’t fall. All 4 of us took turns on the yo-yo .... then up high when you can go two ways.... Crag went the easy way and we were amazed when he made it without any more pro. Then we all climbed it and while we were sitting on top sharing a victory smoke. Up comes John and Kevin Worell. Craig yells down to John “come grab the second ascent! It’s good” that’s when John turns around and says “Naaaa.... we got better things to do”   Crag wanted to name the climb “Plum Pie” because that’s what one would look like if you fell on the yucca. We didn’t have any place to turn in our “FA report” because Wolfe had stopped going to Josh and Randy had not started keeping records for a GB. Now you know the rest of the story. 

Location

The obvious left-arching crack which passes along the left edge of a small roof.

Protection

Gear to 2.5 inches; slings are handy up high.

Photos