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Routes in Echo Rock - South Face

Belgian Chongo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
British Airways T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Feets Don't Fail Me Now T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
London Calling T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moment's Notice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
My Idea of Fun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Nuts are for Men Without Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pope's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Primal Scream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Raked over the Coles T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roof, the T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rule Britannia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Sole Fusion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sonic and the Hot Dog Water S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Street Sweeper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swept Away T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
T.S. Special T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tucker-Powell T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rob Raker, Charles Cole, 1983. (Hence the Clever Name)
Page Views: 1,521 total · 8/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

This excellent crack climb is located about 100 feet right of Pope's Crack. It is first crack (of a series of vertical cracks) that actually reaches the top. The crack that peters out to its left can be used as an alternate start (but why?).

The crux comes early (getting established into the "pod"); after that sustained 5.10 crack leads to a ledge. Descend by rapping off the 2 bolt anchor atop British Airways.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Cams from 0.5 inch to 2 inch. Protection is generally good, though you have to do a few moves at the bottom to get your first piece in.

Photos

Murf  
I start this route in both the left and right cracks. Either small cam or brass to protect the start ( can't recall right now ). Feels beefy for .10d, was initially intimidated by a third hand story of a climber breaking their femur on the route ( big bone, hard to do! ). Feb 4, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Fun and unique- good stemming and lie-backing off of sometimes rounded holds. Personally, I wouldn't call the gear excellent... didn't you have a little trouble getting a secure stance to place it? Jan 11, 2004
Outstanding climb. Surprisingly sustained. The final slab on the "direct finish" has a significant pucker factor. Jan 24, 2004
Nick Sullens
Yosemite
  5.10d
Nick Sullens   Yosemite
  5.10d
I went up the right crack, had some decking potential while standing up in the pod until I got a good piece from the pod stance. Spicy. Feb 10, 2012

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