Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rob Raker, Charles Cole, 1983. (Hence the Clever Name)
Page Views: 1,576 total · 8/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

This excellent crack climb is located about 100 feet right of Pope's Crack. It is first crack (of a series of vertical cracks) that actually reaches the top. The crack that peters out to its left can be used as an alternate start (but why?).

The crux comes early (getting established into the "pod"); after that sustained 5.10 crack leads to a ledge. Descend by rapping off the 2 bolt anchor atop British Airways.

Protection

Cams from 0.5 inch to 2 inch. Protection is generally good, though you have to do a few moves at the bottom to get your first piece in.

Photos

Murf  
I start this route in both the left and right cracks. Either small cam or brass to protect the start ( can't recall right now ). Feels beefy for .10d, was initially intimidated by a third hand story of a climber breaking their femur on the route ( big bone, hard to do! ). Feb 4, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Fun and unique- good stemming and lie-backing off of sometimes rounded holds. Personally, I wouldn't call the gear excellent... didn't you have a little trouble getting a secure stance to place it? Jan 11, 2004
Outstanding climb. Surprisingly sustained. The final slab on the "direct finish" has a significant pucker factor. Jan 24, 2004
Nick Sullens
Yosemite
  5.10d
Nick Sullens   Yosemite
  5.10d
I went up the right crack, had some decking potential while standing up in the pod until I got a good piece from the pod stance. Spicy. Feb 10, 2012