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Routes in Echo Rock - South Face

Belgian Chongo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
British Airways T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Feets Don't Fail Me Now T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
London Calling T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moment's Notice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
My Idea of Fun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Nuts are for Men Without Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pope's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Primal Scream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Raked over the Coles T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roof, the T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rule Britannia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Sole Fusion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sonic and the Hot Dog Water S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Street Sweeper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swept Away T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
T.S. Special T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tucker-Powell T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Evans and Randy Vogel, November 1977
Page Views: 8,373 total, 45/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 5, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

P1) Start at the toe of the slabby buttress (right skyline as seen from the parking area) and climb up towards a roof (this first bit is the same as T.S. Special. At the roof turn the corner to the left and climb improbable face past 3 bolts to a bolted hanging belay.

P2) Steep smears lead off the belay to a bolt, after which comes the crux- a balance move to a right facing flake. Continue up the flake past a fixed pin and some gear placements to a bolted anchor/rap.

Although possible to do in a single pitch if mindful of rope drag, this is best done in two. A hanging belay midway allows one to enjoy the desert from a unique perspective and contemplate the wild-looking crux pitch above. A single rope rap (100') from the top with a 60 meter rope will get you back to terra firma.

Location

Swept Away takes a striking line up the prominent buttress that defines the south end of Echo Rock. Two great pitches mark this climb that goes at a much easier grade than appearances might suggest.

Protection

Bolts, gear to 2", bolted belays/raps (all bolts are 3/8")
Tradiban  
 
Nobody said anything about that little solo to the first gear! .1 or .2 X4 was helpful at the 2nd pitch crux. From the bolted belay I climbed up to clip the bolt then back down for the traverse. Jan 7, 2015
Roy Suggett  
 
One of my favorite all time leads! Back in the day, there were bolts w/o hangers. Had to bolo tie wires and hope for the best. Nov 9, 2014
Randy
  5.11a
Randy  
  5.11a
On Friday, January 11, 2013, Italian actress Mariangela Melato who starred with Giancarlo Giannini in the 1974 film Swept Away -- which inspired this route name -- passed away. She also appeared in several other films directed by the renown Lina Wertmuller, including "The Seduction of Mimi" and "Love and Anarchy." The full title of the film is "Swept Away...by an unusual destiny in the blue sea of August." Jan 12, 2013
Mar' Himmerich
Santa Fe, NM
Mar' Himmerich   Santa Fe, NM
Lead on a blistering, HOT day in June (we covered ourselves in chalk for sunblock). Nobody was in the Park. Malcolm did the crux after an interminable delay. I had to remind him that he hadn't fallen yet so he should "Go 'till you blow"! So he sent it, and we scurried off into a cave. He was beside himself for HOURS. Very high quality crux section! Aug 26, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11a
This climb ROCKS!

Both pitches are quality, and the position is superb.

I found the crux moving slightly left and up after clipping the bolt on the 2nd pitch (but before reaching the flake).

I fiddled with gear at the extreme base of the flake (from a stance just left of the bolt) for about 10 minutes, only to get rewarded with a small RP that promptly fell out as I made one move upwards. Bonus excitement.

There may be better gear at the base of the flake, but with my height of 5'9 I couldn't reach a much better looking spot to protect about 6 inches higher.

The first few flake moves are strenuous but not technically difficult - though I wasn't interested in stopping to place gear and instead just motored to a great rest 4-5 feet higher.

From the flake rest, just place a bomber cam and then enjoy the moderate but exposed climbing to the top!

One of the best imo. Apr 8, 2006
Steven Powers
  5.10d
Steven Powers  
  5.10d
i dont know if calling it 5.10c is really sand bagging it, its really the truth the most gimme 5.11 ive done in the park. Nov 10, 2004
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
I went out to shoot this route (photo) and to hopefully find some folks on it (or even TS Special) but never did see anyone on it. Now that I think about it, over the last 14 years, I can only rememeber a half dozens sightings of climbers on this route. Maybe we'll sandbag it as a 10c, and it would see more traffic.Very nice route (and view). Nov 6, 2004
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.11a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.11a
Another gift from Evans/Vogel.

A route which seems to just hang there, in full view of everyone, yet I have hardly ever seen anyone climbing it.

I found the crux to be just after leaving the hanging belay, a tricky face move. Being tall the flake above went okay, with small pro if I remember well. very exposed at this position.

Killer!!

Has position, intimidation and quality.

5.11a Jan 5, 2003
Did this route yesterday.. the bolt before the crux (and it seems all the rest of them) have been replaced (thanks to whoever!!). For the descent you can make it to the ground with one 60m rope from the top out anchors. We did it in one pitch and it is great at the end of the day since the rock is much warmer than the air! Dec 20, 2002
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The bolt is solid and 3/8" but is paired with an older hanger which should probably be replaced. Oct 31, 2002
Rope drag is hell if done in one pitch. Definitely split it into two. A manky old bolt proects the very delicate slab moves to gain the crack on the second pitch. So it's as much a psycological challenge as a physical one. Rap from the top on a single rope. Oct 31, 2002