Swept Away
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.02465, -116.15513 |
| FA: | Dave Evans and Randy Vogel, November 1977 |
| Page Views: | 14,082 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 5, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
P1) Start at the toe of the slabby buttress (right skyline as seen from the parking area) and climb up towards a roof (this first bit is the same as T.S. Special. At the roof turn the corner to the left and climb improbable face past 3 bolts to a bolted hanging belay.
P2) Steep smears lead off the belay to a bolt, after which comes the crux- a balance move to a right facing flake. Continue up the flake past a fixed pin and some gear placements to a bolted anchor/rap just below a dike system.
- Although possible to do in a single pitch if mindful of rope drag, this is best done in two. A hanging belay midway allows one to enjoy the desert from a unique perspective and contemplate the wild-looking crux pitch above.
- A single rope rap (100') from the top with a 60 meter rope will get you back to terra firma.



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