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Routes in Echo Rock - South Face

Belgian Chongo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
British Airways T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Feets Don't Fail Me Now T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
London Calling T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moment's Notice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
My Idea of Fun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Nuts are for Men Without Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pope's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Primal Scream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Raked over the Coles T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roof, the T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rule Britannia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Sole Fusion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sonic and the Hot Dog Water S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Street Sweeper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swept Away T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
T.S. Special T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tucker-Powell T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Paul Borne, 1994
Page Views: 3,656 total, 39/month
Shared By: T. Stark on Mar 20, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Chossy (probably not climbed a whole lot). Starting at a horizontal crack on the west side of the south face, move right following the bolts up to the horizontal dike. The crux is moving from the lower flakes under the crack to the right side across the cut out. From there it gets runout getting around the corner, past the obvious corner edge (around 5.10) and up to the anchors.

Location

Up and left from Swept Away. Scramble up 4th Class choss from in front of the face and then up left onto a large ledge which lies next to the start. Can down climb from the belay ledge (probably not recommended) or can do two raps, one to the ledge and then over to Pope's Crack.

Protection

Four bolts leading up to the crux and one at the crux. Gets thin and runout from here on to the anchors. Possibly can slot in some smaller nuts.

Photos

steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
The story I heard, from either Thaw or the Fish, was that Bourne called it 14c, making it arguably the hardest route in the world at the time (Hubble and AD had yet to be upgraded), and went on local TV to claim the world's hardest route was in Josh. Myles on sighted the second ascent, confirming the c but slashing two numbers off the 14. Oct 31, 2014
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Cool vid of some hard climbing in Josh. Nice bits of history there too. Thanks. Nov 9, 2011
C Miller   CA  
AKA "Borne to be Wild", this route was graded 5.13 when established in 1994. Unrepeated for many years with rumors of it being as hard as 5.14 only adding to the mystique.

In the late 1990's Sean Myles (UK) supposedly sent it or one-hanged it and called it 5.12d/5.13a but that was never confirmed.

Just to clarify this route climbs the dike below Sole Fusion and traverses right to join the anchors atop Swept Away.

youtube.com/watch?v=tSdHAka… Mar 22, 2010
Rob,

The rating/name info that ninjakait posted came from me. Wasn't entirely sure about either, but thought it to be close to the mark. Mar 22, 2010
Murf  
Cool action sequence in the photos, congrats to Alan. Mar 22, 2010
RTM
RTM  
Mr. Moore's comment to me was that it is .12d. Did you also send ninja, or is Alan yankin my chain? Mar 22, 2010
Great series of pictures, and a great send for Alan and Joshua Tree. The high end climbs don't see alot of action around here Mar 21, 2010