Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Randy Vogel, Charles Cole, and Darryl Nakahira, 1982
Page Views: 2,840 total · 17/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Located on the far right side of Echo Rock, this is the first route right of Pope's Crack and requires a bit of scrambling through talus to reach the base.

Start 15' right of Pope's Crack behind a clump of yuccas, and climb the left-facing flared corner with an intermittent crack/seam in it's back (5.10) to it's end - pro is decent but the 1st placement is quite high. Above, continue up a steep slab with two bolts that passes along the right edge of a small roof. The climbing in the upper section (5.11a) is characterized by thin edges that require both delicate footwork and thoughtful movement. A bolted anchor/rap will be found at the top to return you quickly to your pack.

A good route in a sheltered location that gets lots of sun for those cold and windy days. The somewhat runout nature of the route means it gets led infrequently, but a toprope is easily rigged by climbing Pope's Crack as the rappel for that route takes you right over this route. Three stars out of five.


2 bolts (3/8"), pro to 1.5" (mostly thin), bolted anchor/rap


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
So named, because on the second ascent (done the day after the FA) a certain well-known British climber took a winger on the route. Jul 16, 2002
Having lead this route on several occasions, I find the crux, both technical and mental to be above the last bolt where you have to get your feet high on some pretty greasy holds. BTW: this is where Jonny Woodward (being rather inattentively belayed by Maria Cranor-think large half-arc of slack) took the famous 35+ foot whipper. The name for the route became immediately obvious. Jan 18, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The runout section at the bottom is considerably more easy than the top of the route, maybe 5.10a or b?. I TR'd it though. The 2 cruxes are the changing directions move above the 1st bolt and the last move on the high step. I did this move in quite could weather and would not have described it as 'greasy.' Josh 5.11a face climbing is challenging for me. I got on this route on TR expecting 11d as printed in the Vogel book and kept waiting for a crux. One never came. I lowered off shaking my head and told my partner it felt like 11a. Only upon cross-referencing the index did I descover that it was indeed a simple misprint. Jan 5, 2004
Bo Johnston  
We top roped this route after climbing "Pope's Crack". The Vogel guide has it rated 5.11d but I'd side with the 11a rating; only for the fact that I was able to climb it! Feb 6, 2005
Lead this route last weekend again. The rock on the lower section is quite solid (so many TR ascents) and it is a 3 of 5 star route (imsbo). At about 20+ feet up the botton section you can get an excellent 1 - 1.5 inch cam placement. Just below the 1st bolt are thin nut/cam placements. Still runnout at the beginning and the top is thin and greasy.

The rating in the old guide was a typo (it was originally rated 10d).

Dec 3, 2005
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11a R
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11a R
you can get a 1/2" cam in about 15+ feet up. Nov 18, 2011
  5.11a R
  5.11a R
I followed this one. Be solid climbing 5.10b to get to the first gear placement. Fun little step crossover above first bolt. Crux comes after the roof and last bolt. Two little smearing edges for your feet and thin finger tip holds. Moving off of those was tricky. Feb 19, 2013
I finally decided to lead this last year. I'd toproped it in the past but always wanted to get it on the sharp end. I felt really solid but it was still pretty exciting. The top of the climb is certainly the hardest part and I remember a thrilling moment as I teetered into a slightly off-balance thumb press in the final moves of the crux. It's slippery up there, precarious and all the while an exciting runout looms below! The beginning, while easier, is still 5.10 and sports a giant nolina waiting to potentially skewer you should you slip off the initial section at the wrong time. First protection is good but as others have said, only arrives after 15-20 feet when the climbing eases back to 5.9 or less. A little dicey, definitely 'R', but pretty classy and a satisfying lead.

Once it becomes available, protection is good in the initial crack. Perhaps superstitiously, I placed a smallish cam with a medium sling in the small roof overlap for good measure. The bolts are fine, but it sometimes pays to double down on gear. Dec 27, 2013