Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Echo Rock - South Face

Belgian Chongo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
British Airways T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Feets Don't Fail Me Now T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
London Calling T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moment's Notice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
My Idea of Fun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Nuts are for Men Without Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pope's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Primal Scream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Raked over the Coles T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roof, the T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rule Britannia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Sole Fusion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sonic and the Hot Dog Water S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Street Sweeper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swept Away T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
T.S. Special T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tucker-Powell T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mike Graham, Rick Accomazzo, Tobin Sorenson, Pete Wilkening & Jim Wilson, December 1973
Page Views: 1,205 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start at the toe of the buttress (same as for Swept Away) and climb the slab directly up to the prominent roof which is turned via some thought-provoking moves to a stance with a bolt. Higher, easier moves lead up and left to the bolted belay/rap for Swept Away. Rap off with a single 60 meter rope or make it more of an adventure and walk off.

A fun route that is recommended for those solid at the grade. Pro can be placed in the crack at the base of the roof, but the moves over the roof are largely unprotected and will result in a fall onto the slab.

Protection

pro to 2.5", bolt, anchors

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9 R
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9 R
A commanding line though, right up the middle of the buttress - I enjoyed it. Dec 27, 2009
RTM
  5.9 R
RTM  
  5.9 R
One of my first leads ever, back when I thought climbing was supposed to be scary and dangerous. Aug 17, 2009
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
 
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
 
I'd have to climb this route again to opine on the rating. I probably did it some 25 yrs. ago. I wanted to add a comment mostly to say I think it is a good route, even if the roof is far, far harder than the rest of the route. It's an adventure for sure and the roof will really test your will to commit. May 20, 2009
When I did this one back in 1984, it was 5.8 and no R rating. This one is dangerous, I broke my foot, be warned. Aug 6, 2007
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
I followed Woody up this and can only give it one star due to the ease of getting to the roof and how easy it was above it. I found it to be a "Boulder" problem above and below a relatively easy start/finish.........but the roof moves were cool so I say give it a shot. Straight forward rap off of bolts and a short walk to your gear....... Dec 17, 2004
Woody Stark
  5.9
Woody Stark  
  5.9
A good route that deserves two stars in my opinion. I followed it many years ago and had forgotten the exposed nature of the overhang (crux). If the leader blows it here he'll need a litter. The face above (never more than 5.6) is runout for about 60'; but pro can be set in the crack to the right if you want to move in that direction. The bolt above the overhang is ancient but lovely. Dec 17, 2004
Adam Stackhouse

  5.9-
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.9-
I used to enjoy laughing with people who complained about manky bolts, or fp. I'd always ask rhetorically if they clipped it and always recieved the sheepish smirk of affirmation. Nov 6, 2004
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The bolt is still a quarter-incher I believe, although you'll still be happy to clip it. Nov 6, 2003