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Routes in Echo Rock - South Face

Belgian Chongo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
British Airways T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Feets Don't Fail Me Now T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
London Calling T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moment's Notice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
My Idea of Fun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Nuts are for Men Without Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pope's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Primal Scream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Raked over the Coles T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roof, the T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rule Britannia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Sole Fusion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sonic and the Hot Dog Water S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Street Sweeper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swept Away T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
T.S. Special T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tucker-Powell T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, February 2010
Page Views: 4,743 total · 49/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Feb 25, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

An exciting finish that makes a classic route even more classic.

Climb the crack straight up to the big roof, then climb out the right side of the roof past a fixed pin and a bolt. At the lip of the roof, reach right to a good hold. Once you're over the roof, it's 30 feet of class 4 slab to the top.

The overhang is well protected and much easier than it looks!

Protection

Pro to 3 inches.

Photos

Tradiban  
 
Crux hold is no more flexy than anything else in JT. May 4, 2016
Mega classic finish for Pope's Crack BUT that good right hold you reach for over the roof unfortunately ain't gonna last much longer. Climbed it a few days ago. That hold flexes quite a bit. Major bummer :-( Feb 11, 2016
Cron
Barrington, NH
  5.10b
Cron   Barrington, NH
  5.10b
This is the only way to do Pope's. I backed up the pin w/ a small cam in the finger undercling but getting to the bolt is fairly secure w/ good edging. I'm 6'2" and found pulling the bulge quite easy reaching around and finding a crimp/jug far out right. Used cams 0.5 to 1" for the gear anchor up top. Jan 24, 2016
so good. easy to clip the pin. underclings and crimps help you make the bolt clip. great sloper above the bolt, good dish for your right foot, keep reaching for the jug up and right. the business is just keeping your head in the game. airy exposure and a sporty finish to top off a great crack... can't ask for much more. Feb 9, 2014
Slipped off the crux on this yesterday...

Didn't know about the good hold till after i had put my foot in my face to mantel the roof...went to bump for that hold and took a good fall down to the slab below.

I was following on the route, as i fell and swung out left my rope dragged across the lip of the roof...when i looked up after the fall i realized the sheath on my rope had been completely torn open(i could see the white core stands)and i only weigh 140. So, at that point I traversed out left and climbed the original finish.

  • I would recommend the leader place a cam in the crack a few feet over the roof as a directional(might minimize the swing).
  • Just a heads up for everyone
Nov 18, 2013
Phil Esra
  5.10c
Phil Esra  
  5.10c
yup, reachy at 5'6". safe and fun--makes the old finish obsolete. might not be as hard as it looks, but... hard enough. Nov 28, 2012
Richard Shore
  5.10
Richard Shore  
  5.10
A beautiful finish and a total change in character from the rest of Pope's Crack. I thought the moves over the roof to be kinda stout on OK holds. My shorter partner (5'4"?) really struggled making the reach to the slopey jug at the lip. Nov 14, 2011
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
Far better than the traditional finish, this limits ropedrag and I feel is more aesthetic. The roof looks quite improbable, but the rating is right on.
Descent Beta: Belay in the crack above a yucca off of cams, then scramble (3rd Class) to the rap anchors above British Airways, climbers right of Pope's. Apr 9, 2011
Will Conley
  5.10b
Will Conley  
  5.10b
I did this this weekend (2010-11-27), and I thought it was really fun. I hadn't heard about it, but we met some guys at the base of the route who had read about it here. I agree with Bob's assessment that the roof is well protected and not as hard as it looks. The bolt is in the perfect place: it's easy to reach from below, and it's at your waist when you're pulling the crux. Kudos Bob. The crux might be a little reachy, though. My climbing partner is 5'5", and she had a little difficulty reaching the good hold out right. A few guys who did it after us had a little trouble also. Nov 30, 2010
Ian G.
PDX, OR
Ian G.   PDX, OR
Whoa, I did regular Pope's Crack probably only days after you guys put this up. When I got to the traverse I looked up and saw a pin and bolt wondered "where does that go?" Had I known it was only .10a I would have gone for it. Good job. Feb 28, 2010