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Routes in Echo Rock - South Face

Belgian Chongo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
British Airways T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Feets Don't Fail Me Now T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
London Calling T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moment's Notice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
My Idea of Fun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Nuts are for Men Without Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pope's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Primal Scream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Raked over the Coles T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roof, the T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rule Britannia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Sole Fusion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sonic and the Hot Dog Water S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Street Sweeper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swept Away T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
T.S. Special T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tucker-Powell T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon & Mark Hoffman, April 1993
Page Views: 1,993 total, 10/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route starts down and right of British Airways. A small cam protects hard moves getting to 1st bolt. The crux move is getting past the 1st bolt (very technical moves - 5.11c). Above 2 more bolts protect face climbing on big plates (a bit loose) up and then left to join British Airways at its 1st bolt. Finish up British Airways (you do the crux of it as well). Would give it only 2 of 5 stars. Rap off.

In the photo, the lower section is hidden by the boulder; crux is reaching over the small roof you can just see.

Protection

5 bolts (2 of which are on British Airways) 3/4" to 1" cam to protect getting to 1st bolt

Photos

Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
Has anyone tried linking this into Rule Britannia? Seems like a pretty logical line. Bad rock quality makes the traverse to the right seem problematic. Jan 21, 2014
Ben H  
toddgordon, thanks for that info. It actually looks like someone might have mashed that 3rd bolt in a little further recently? I saw it at a distance from British Airways a couple days ago, and it maybe? looks better than it did when I clipped it two weeks ago. Nov 8, 2010
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Ben H...that bolt was crappy since the day it was placed....it's a 5/16" buttonhead, and it started to bend over when I hammered it in....I planned to fix it someday, but haven't yet.....oops.....it's probably bomber, but it looks funky.... Oct 25, 2010
Ben H  
The 3rd bolt looks as though it has sustained a pretty severe fall. It is partially pulled, and bent pretty significantly.

Extend draws to reduce rope drag while pulling the exit moves of British Airways, or its a unpleasant finish or the British Airways flight.

The bottom is really gritty, but overall a pretty fun route. Oct 25, 2010
C Miller
CA
  5.11c
C Miller   CA  
  5.11c
A fun route which has a short, well-protected crux down low, an easy middle section and another crux at the top. After mantling the flake at the start technical and insecure moves lead out right via improbable smears, liebacking as well as underclinging the roof to reach a nice jug at the second bolt. Above easy (5.9) climbing leads up and left to join British Airways for it's always thrilling finish. Three stars out of five. Jan 22, 2005