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Routes in The Thumb

Blame Canada S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brace Y'self aka Pin Job T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Center Slot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confines of Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Descent Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Epic Sushi Party S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Konichiwa S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Left Center T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mind Over Matter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Mind, It Doesn't Matter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
North Overhangs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Opposable Distraction T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pigeon Perch T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pixie, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rest in Peace S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Right Center T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rooftop Rodeo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
South Ridge of the Thumb T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Sucker Punch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thumb Up My Arse T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thumb's Up S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Uphill Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vapor Trail S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Zig Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 152 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This is an obvious line on the East side of The Thumb. It does receive a star in Gillett's but not Rossiter's guidebook. Not too bad when you're trying to squeeze in something between downpours. You can do this in 1 or 2 pitches; however, the 2-bolt anchor depicted in Rossiter's guide seems to be gone.

From the trail's junction with The Thumb, head right about 50 feet. Look up & see a right-angling, right-facing, obtuse dihedral with blackish lichen (a touch slippery when wet). This is the line. Start up face moves to a short, left-facing dihedral with a fixed orange TCU. The start probably warrants a PG-13. The crux of the route is likely the movement out of this dihedral onto face holds up & right. Continue up past a pin (no bolts to be seen), follow the right-facing corner up, pass another pin. At about 100 feet up, you can move left about 12 feet to a 2 bolt anchor or you can continue to the top.

From the top, you can move above the slabby West face, drop down (with a belay), and find a set of slings threaded through a constriction. Rap 95'. Or you can downclimb to Brace Y'self aka Pin Route's anchor & rappel.

Location

This is located on the E side of the Thumb, about 50 feet up & right from where the trail meets the rock.

Protection

Wires, Aliens to #2 Camalot. 60m rope useful.

Photos

Rick Blair
Denver
  5.7 PG13
Rick Blair   Denver
  5.7 PG13
To me, this would be awful as 1 pitch. We broke it up by slinging a block above the 5.7 section off route to climber's right. Wide gear in the grassy groove above would be another option. Aug 4, 2016
Greg Speer
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7 PG13
Greg Speer   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7 PG13
Ditto on the need for a mid route bolted belay station. We managed a less than optimal belay there. Otherwise, a very enjoyable climb. Jun 6, 2011
Ayescotty9
  5.7 PG13
Ayescotty9  
  5.7 PG13
I had problems with massive rope drag doing this in 1 pitch - and that was with generous slings used down low. It's easy to miss the "anchor 12 feet to the left" - as I did, and the only suitable crack for building a belay - a wide 1"-4" crack - isn't found til topping out.

This long 170' pitch could probably use a good mid-pitch bolted belay station in the slabby mid-part of the climb. If I had expertise in this, I'd go do it myself. May 30, 2011