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Routes in The Thumb

Blame Canada S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brace Y'self aka Pin Job T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Center Slot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confines of Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Descent Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Epic Sushi Party S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Konichiwa S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Left Center T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mind Over Matter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Mind, It Doesn't Matter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
North Overhangs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Opposable Distraction T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pigeon Perch T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pixie, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rest in Peace S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Right Center T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rooftop Rodeo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
South Ridge of the Thumb T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Sucker Punch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thumb Up My Arse T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thumb's Up S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Uphill Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vapor Trail S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Zig Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: E. Helmuth
Page Views: 106 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nathan Welton on Jun 30, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is just to the right of Thumbs Up.

This is the second line of black bolts you spy to the right of where the trail from The Needle meets The Thumb. You start with a few gear placements (small cams) and continue through a bolted line of sustained 5.10 climbing.

Protection

QDs and a few small cams.

Photos

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Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
 
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
 
I suggested the 5.10 grade to Nathan, but that might be redpoint vs. an onsight grade of 10+?

There's an old stuck orange cam which marks the hanging dihedral that has gear below and in it before you reach the first bolt- pretty much fall-line. This can also be the start for Pin Job vs. the harder crack start 2m to the left.

Anchor is exactly 29m on this one and can also be accessed easily by climbing past the Thumbs Up route anchor. This new anchor replaces the funky Pin Job anchor that was mostly removed.

Should clean-up with a few more ascents. There is a large hold near the 2nd bolt that moves but seems to be key-locked in...but can be a bit exciting the first time you grab it! Jul 7, 2013
Rock quality on this one is a bit questionable. Jul 2, 2013