The Thumb Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 8,400 ft | 2,560 m |
GPS: |
40.357, -105.5167 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 29,849 total · 134/month | |
Shared By: | Nate Christiansen on Sep 15, 2006 · Updates | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Beginning Jan. 19, 2024, and lasting no later than Feb. 9, 2024, the Town of Estes Park will be temporarily closing the trailhead access at the Thumb Open Space due to required construction activity. This area will be blocked off and not accessible during the closure period. There will no parking or public access from the trailhead.
Brian Berg
Park Supervisor
Town of Estes Park
The Thumb and Needle are prominent crags (previously on private property) that are now on The Thumb Open Space, established in 2022 by the Town of Ester Park. Access to the crags is gained from a signed trailhead and small parking lot on Peak View Drive just west of Curry Drive. Do not park on Curry Drive or access the crags from anywhere along Curry Drive. From the Peak View Drive trailhead, the trail is well marked and approximately 0.75 miles long with an elevation gain of about 400 feet. Expect about 20 to 30 minutes for the approach to reach the Thumb and the Needle.
The Town of Estes Park worked on purchasing the property with the Access Fund, Rocky Mountain Conservancy, GOCO, and The Estes Valley Land Trust. The goal is to keep this area public with climbing access, so please respect private property rights of adjacent landowners.
For any questions about The Thumb Open Space, please contact Brian Berg, Park Supervisor, Town of Estes Park, bberg@estes.org, (970) 577-3783.
During 2022, major efforts were expended by members of the Boulder Climbing Community and Estes Park volunteers to replace over 100 old protection bolts and anchors on many of the sport climbs on the Thumb and the Needle. Many of the routes now have clip and lower anchors, and there are also new rappel stations on top of both crags and also the Thimble.
Formerly: The Thumb and Needle were on private property and the gravel road part of Curry Dr. is a private road. There was no public access to the Thumb or Needle until the Thumb Open Space was created. The Town of Estes Park purchased the property with our partners the Access Fund, Rocky Mountain Conservancy, GOCO, and The Estes Valley Land Trust. The goal was to make this area public with climbing access...success.
Any questions? Please contact me directly.
Brian Berg
Town of Estes Park
Park Supervisor
bberg@estes.org
(970) 577-3783
Description
The Thumb has a one rope rappel for the summiter that is off of the west side from slings from a good well-marked chockstone. There is another rappel involving 2 one rope rappels down the north face.
Eds. The original description for The Thumb & The Needle was split for clarity.
Getting There
The Thumb and Needle are prominent crags (previously on private property) that are now on The Thumb Open Space, established in 2022 by the Town of Ester Park. Access to the crags is gained from a signed trailhead and small parking lot on Peak View Drive just west of Curry Drive. Do not park on Curry Drive or access the crags from anywhere along Curry Drive. From the Peak View Drive trailhead, the trail is well marked and approximately 0.75 miles long with an elevation gain of about 400 feet. Expect about 20 to 30 minutes for the approach to reach the Thumb and the Needle.
The Town of Estes Park worked on purchasing the property with the Access Fund, Rocky Mountain Conservancy, GOCO, and The Estes Valley Land Trust. The goal is to keep this area public with climbing access, so please respect private property rights of adjacent landowners.
For any questions about The Thumb Open Space, please contact Brian Berg, Park Supervisor, Town of Estes Park, bberg@estes.org, (970) 577-3783.
During 2022, major efforts were expended by members of the Boulder Climbing Community and Estes Park volunteers to replace over 100 old protection bolts and anchors on many of the sport climbs on the Thumb and the Needle. Many of the routes now have clip and lower anchors, and there are also new rappel stations on top of both crags and also the Thimble.
Descent
To descend the Thumb, you can find a set of slings just below the level of the summit on the West Face. Rappel 95 ft to the ground. You can also descend with a 60m single rope by rappeling off the North Face TWICE. You can also spiral down the descent climb, 5.2 heading SW and following the path of least resistance.
Per Amos Patrick: there is a rap anchor with chains at the south end of the Thumb. From the summit plateau, scramble down and right (west) through some 3rd Class terrain. You'll come across the Green Thumb anchor with no chains. Keep heading down and right for about another 15 feet to an anchor with chains. From here, you can barely get down with a single 60m. See the photo.
L->R:
Per Nathan Welton:
East Face
A. Left Center, 8+, 1p, 80', gear.
B. Thumb's Up, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.
C. Brace Y'Self, 10, 1p, 95', gear, pins, & bolts.
D. Thumb Up My Arse, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts + gear.
E1. Blame Canada, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. Right Center, 7 PG-13, 1p, 180', gear.
G1. Center Slot, 8, 2p, 180', gear.
G2H. Epic Sushi Party, 10, 1p, 90', bolts.
H. Zig Arete, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
I1. Confines of Power, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
I2. Vapor Trail, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
J1. Mind over Matter, 12-, 1p, 140', gear.
J2. Never Mind It Does't Matter, 11, 2p, 140', gear.
J3. North Overhangs aka North Roof, 9-, 2p, 220', gear.
K. Sucker Punch, 12, 1p, TR.
L. The Pixie, 12, 1p, 65', bolts.
M. Konichiwa, 12+, 1p, 65', bolts.
N. Pigeon Perch, 9, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.
O. Rooftop Rodeo, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
P. Uphill Cracks, 7, 1p, 90', gear.
Q. Opposable Distraction, 11+, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
R Rest in Peace, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
S. West Face.
South Face
T. Unknown, 8, 1p, 70', TR.
U. Unknown, 7, 1p, 70', TR.
V. Unknown, 6, 1p, 70', TR.
W. Unknown, 5, 1p, 70', gear or TR.
X. Unknown, 2, 1p, 70', gear.
Y. Descent Route, 4, 2p, 200', gear.
Z. South Ridge of the Thumb, 3 R, 2p, gear.
AA. Green Thumb, 7, 1p, bolts.
Also note that you can descend off the northwest face in a single 30m rap from the chains atop Rest in Peace.
More 2020 Access Information
Per Brian Berg, as of 2022, the Thumb Open Space is now owned by the Town of Estes Park and protected forever by a Conservation Easement. It is the Town's goal to keep this open for outdoor recreation which includes rock climbing and bouldering. There are no longer any access issues. Please respect the surrounding private property.
Previously, Prospect Mt. had been owned privately, primarily by 2 landowners, for a long time. Over the years, these landowners had tolerated climbing presence on various crags. With an increase in visitation, perhaps due to COVID-19, these property owners had become unwilling to allow climbers on their lands. In fact, no trespassing signs have been posted, and some unpleasant confrontations had occurred. The town of Estes Park has sought to purchase land that would include many of the climbing crags and boulders on Prospect Mt. The town of Estes Park has been working with the Access Fund, Rocky Mountain Conservancy, GOCO, and the Estes Valley Land Trust in an effort to provide legal access to the climbing on Prospect Mt. recently. A new trail may be built, and a management plan followed. During this ongoing process, we were requested to avoid climbing on these crags so as to make these negotiations go as smoothly as possible. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation! IT WORKED!
Classic Climbing Routes at The Thumb
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