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Routes in The Thumb

Blame Canada S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brace Y'self aka Pin Job T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Center Slot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confines of Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Descent Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Epic Sushi Party S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Konichiwa S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Left Center T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mind Over Matter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Mind, It Doesn't Matter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
North Overhangs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Opposable Distraction T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pigeon Perch T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pixie, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rest in Peace S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Right Center T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rooftop Rodeo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
South Ridge of the Thumb T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Sucker Punch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thumb Up My Arse T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thumb's Up S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Uphill Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vapor Trail S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Zig Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 718 total · 8/month
Shared By: Stan Jones on Jul 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The ramp is narrow initially, but the climbing is always easy. From the south side to the west side, you are walking on a wide ledge. Crux is the final move to the top which is about 5.6.

Location

Begin on the east side of the Thumb just right of the school slabs. Climb 15 feet to a ramp/ledge system that circles left halfway around the Thumb to the west side. You may want to break the ledge up into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag. From the wide ledge on the west with a two-bolt anchor, follow the right side of a gully to the top.

Rap 100 feet from the slings and rap rings on the west side of the top.

Protection

There are several anchors along the way that can be clipped. Otherwise medium gear up to #3 BD C4. Trad anchor or stance on top.

Photos

Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
I don't know if I'd call this 5.4. The guidebook has it listed as 5.2, and that feels pretty accurate to me. The final move to the top is a pull on a huge, RRG-sized jug that is protected by a perfect cam at your face, super easy movement. Despite what I've said about the grade, this route is definitely worth running up really fast if you're in the area or if you are a new leader. Great opportunities for passive pro on easy terrain. Topping out on the summit is really nice too, great views. As for a descending, we rapped off of the block slung by a huge cord, seemed safer than the tenuous downclimb to some of the surrounding bolted anchors. Note: the rap anchors are on the left side of the tower from where you top out, you kind of have to explore for a second to find them. Jun 16, 2014

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