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Routes in The Thumb

Blame Canada S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brace Y'self aka Pin Job T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Center Slot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confines of Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Descent Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Epic Sushi Party S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Konichiwa S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Left Center T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mind Over Matter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Mind, It Doesn't Matter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
North Overhangs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Opposable Distraction T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pigeon Perch T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pixie, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rest in Peace S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Right Center T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rooftop Rodeo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
South Ridge of the Thumb T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Sucker Punch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thumb Up My Arse T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thumb's Up S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Uphill Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vapor Trail S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Zig Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: N. Welton
Page Views: 110 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nathan Welton on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is basically roped bouldering, but it's still pretty fun and very photogenic! The crux is intriguing and stout, despite the meat of the climb being maybe 15 feet or so.

Follow the line of bolts to the right of The Pixie.

There are several ways to climb this extremely weird roof. One way goes like this: find the crimp right below the roof, bust left to giant jugs, match on the higher one, and then do a heel hook dyno to set your right foot in the lower jug. Reach up to a right handed pinch, left to a sidepull crimp, right out to a crimp in the roof's dihedral, left to another sidepull crimp above the crappy right hand hold you pinched, and bust right out to a sloping crimp below the bolt, iron cross style. Left goes to a jug, get a knee bar to clip, blah blah blah.

Make sure your shoulders are strong! Basically, this is 5.10 to a hard V7 boulder problem. Best to continue upward, joining the upper crux of Rooftop Rodeo. You may want to unclip some of these bolts as you pass to reduce rope drag if you go to Rooftop Rodeo's anchors.

This is covered in lichen and is still cleaning up, but the essential holds have been brushed.

Protection

8 bolts to the old belay anchor halfway up The Pixie; 11 bolts if you keep going on up and hit the anchors for Rooftop Rodeo.

Location

This is right of The Pixie.

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