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Routes in The Thumb
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Blame Canada S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Brace Y'self aka Pin Job T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Center Slot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Confines of Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Descent Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Epic Sushi Party S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Green Thumb S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Konichiwa S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Left Center T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mind Over Matter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Never Mind, It Doesn't Matter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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North Overhangs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Opposable Distraction T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pigeon Perch T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pixie, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rest in Peace S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Right Center T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Rooftop Rodeo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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South Ridge of the Thumb T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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Sucker Punch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Thumb Up My Arse T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Thumb's Up S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Uphill Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vapor Trail S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Zig Arete S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | N. Welton |
| Page Views: | 998 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Welton on Jul 8, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Thumb and Needle Closures - resolved with The Thumb Open Space creation
Details
The Thumb and Needle are prominent crags (previously on private property) that are now on The Thumb Open Space, established in 2022 by the Town of Ester Park. Access to the crags is gained from a signed trailhead and small parking lot on Peak View Drive just west of Curry Drive. Do not park on Curry Drive or access the crags from anywhere along Curry Drive. From the Peak View Drive trailhead, the trail is well marked and approximately 0.75 miles long with an elevation gain of about 400 feet. Expect about 20 to 30 minutes for the approach to reach the Thumb and the Needle.
The Town of Estes Park worked on purchasing the property with the Access Fund, Rocky Mountain Conservancy, GOCO, and The Estes Valley Land Trust. The goal is to keep this area public with climbing access, so please respect private property rights of adjacent landowners.
For any questions about The Thumb Open Space, please contact Brian Berg, Park Supervisor, Town of Estes Park, bberg@estes.org, (970) 577-3783.
During 2022, major efforts were expended by members of the Boulder Climbing Community and Estes Park volunteers to replace over 100 old protection bolts and anchors on many of the sport climbs on the Thumb and the Needle. Many of the routes now have clip and lower anchors, and there are also new rappel stations on top of both crags and also the Thimble.
Formerly: The Thumb and Needle were on private property and the gravel road part of Curry Dr. is a private road. There was no public access to the Thumb or Needle until the Thumb Open Space was created. The Town of Estes Park purchased the property with our partners the Access Fund, Rocky Mountain Conservancy, GOCO, and The Estes Valley Land Trust. The goal was to make this area public with climbing access...success.
Any questions? Please contact me directly.
Brian Berg
Town of Estes Park
Park Supervisor
bberg@estes.org
(970) 577-3783
The Town of Estes Park worked on purchasing the property with the Access Fund, Rocky Mountain Conservancy, GOCO, and The Estes Valley Land Trust. The goal is to keep this area public with climbing access, so please respect private property rights of adjacent landowners.
For any questions about The Thumb Open Space, please contact Brian Berg, Park Supervisor, Town of Estes Park, bberg@estes.org, (970) 577-3783.
During 2022, major efforts were expended by members of the Boulder Climbing Community and Estes Park volunteers to replace over 100 old protection bolts and anchors on many of the sport climbs on the Thumb and the Needle. Many of the routes now have clip and lower anchors, and there are also new rappel stations on top of both crags and also the Thimble.
Formerly: The Thumb and Needle were on private property and the gravel road part of Curry Dr. is a private road. There was no public access to the Thumb or Needle until the Thumb Open Space was created. The Town of Estes Park purchased the property with our partners the Access Fund, Rocky Mountain Conservancy, GOCO, and The Estes Valley Land Trust. The goal was to make this area public with climbing access...success.
Any questions? Please contact me directly.
Brian Berg
Town of Estes Park
Park Supervisor
bberg@estes.org
(970) 577-3783
Description
This is basically roped bouldering, but it's still pretty fun and very photogenic! The crux is intriguing and stout, despite the meat of the climb being maybe 15 feet or so.
Follow the line of bolts to the right of The Pixie.
There are several ways to climb this extremely weird roof, each involving a variety of techniques: dynes, kneebars, iron crosses, and super high heel hooks. Without giving anything away, just make sure your shoulders are strong! Basically, this is 5.10 to a hard V7 boulder problem. It is best to continue upward, joining the upper crux of Rooftop Rodeo. You may want to unclip some of these bolts as you pass to reduce rope drag if you go to Rooftop Rodeo's anchors.
This is covered in lichen and is still cleaning up, but the essential holds have been brushed.
Protection
8 bolts to the old belay anchor halfway up The Pixie; 11 bolts if you keep going on up and hit the anchors for Rooftop Rodeo.
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