Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 65 ft|
|Page Views:||103 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Nathan Welton on Jul 8, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is basically roped bouldering, but it's still pretty fun and very photogenic! The crux is intriguing and stout, despite the meat of the climb being maybe 15 feet or so.
Follow the line of bolts to the right of The Pixie.
There are several ways to climb this extremely weird roof. One way goes like this: find the crimp right below the roof, bust left to giant jugs, match on the higher one, and then do a heel hook dyno to set your right foot in the lower jug. Reach up to a right handed pinch, left to a sidepull crimp, right out to a crimp in the roof's dihedral, left to another sidepull crimp above the crappy right hand hold you pinched, and bust right out to a sloping crimp below the bolt, iron cross style. Left goes to a jug, get a knee bar to clip, blah blah blah.
Without giving away too much, make sure your shoulders are strong! Basically, this is 5.10 to a hard V7 boulder problem. Best to continue upward, joining the upper crux of Rooftop Rodeo. You may want to unclip some of these bolts as you pass to reduce rope drag if you go to Rooftop Rodeo's anchors.
This is covered in lichen and is still cleaning up, but the essential holds have been brushed.
Protection8 bolts to the old belay anchor halfway up The Pixie; 11 bolts if you keep going on up and hit the anchors for Rooftop Rodeo.
LocationThis is right of The Pixie.
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