Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: N. Welton
Page Views: 998 total · 8/month
Shared By: Nathan Welton on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Thumb and Needle Closures - resolved with The Thumb Open Space creation Details


This is basically roped bouldering, but it's still pretty fun and very photogenic! The crux is intriguing and stout, despite the meat of the climb being maybe 15 feet or so.

Follow the line of bolts to the right of The Pixie.

There are several ways to climb this extremely weird roof, each involving a variety of techniques: dynes, kneebars, iron crosses, and super high heel hooks. Without giving anything away, just make sure your shoulders are strong! Basically, this is 5.10 to a hard V7 boulder problem. It is best to continue upward, joining the upper crux of Rooftop Rodeo. You may want to unclip some of these bolts as you pass to reduce rope drag if you go to Rooftop Rodeo's anchors.

This is covered in lichen and is still cleaning up, but the essential holds have been brushed.


8 bolts to the old belay anchor halfway up The Pixie; 11 bolts if you keep going on up and hit the anchors for Rooftop Rodeo.


This is right of The Pixie.