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Routes in The Thumb

Blame Canada S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brace Y'self aka Pin Job T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Center Slot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confines of Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Descent Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Epic Sushi Party S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Konichiwa S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Left Center T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mind Over Matter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Mind, It Doesn't Matter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
North Overhangs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Opposable Distraction T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pigeon Perch T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pixie, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rest in Peace S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Right Center T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rooftop Rodeo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
South Ridge of the Thumb T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Sucker Punch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thumb Up My Arse T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thumb's Up S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Uphill Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vapor Trail S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Zig Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 98 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 2, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a decent climb in the shade on a hot day, but it is not a great climb. Approach the school slabs of the Thumb and go right, heading down and around a corner to a set of twin cracks ascending into an awkward (but fun) left-facing corner.

P1: 5.8, 90' Climb up this and exit left over a bulge perhaps 15 meters up, and head left to a comfortable belay stance at 25 meters or so. From there, belay due to rope drag.

P2: 5.6, 100' Climb up the crack and slot above this to the top of the rock. This pitch is deceptively long, as it rolls past a few false summits on decreasingly low angle slabs. Belay up top.

To descend, rap 100' from the back side and walk around the south end past the slabs to the base, or go NE and rap twice (2 X 80') down Mind Over Matter and the Zig Arete to near the base.

Protection

A set of nuts and a set of cams. Several longer slings.

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