Avg: 2 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||128 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a fun, steep route that skirts some large overhangs on the north side of the Thumb.
- note*: if you follow the guidebooks' beta, this is only a one-star route! Read on....
Hike around to the north side of the Thumb, and find the large, left-facing corner directly below a large roof about 2/3 of the way up.
P1. Climb this fun 5.8 corner past several bulges, but do not belay below the roof as the guidebooks recommend. This pulls you away from the line, but worse, there are incredible amounts of pigeon shit here and you will be sitting right in it.
Instead, about 20-30 feet below the roof (~80 feet up), step right and belay on a nice ledge with a 2-bolts.
P2: continue up the corner to the roof, and make an airy 5.9- traverse to the right, with tricky gear, to get around it. Continue up a steep easy corner, festooned with birdshit (most of which can be avoided) to the top.
It might be possible to do the whole route in one pitch with a 60 meter rope, although my guess is that the route is a bit longer than that. [Eds. it is possible with rope drag.]
Descent: 2 single-rope rappels from bolt anchors to the climber's left of where you topped out, or one rappel with a single 60m rope from slings on the west side of the summit. There is no walk-off; the easiest downclimb is long, convoluted, and about 5.2.