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Routes in The Thumb

Blame Canada S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brace Y'self aka Pin Job T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Center Slot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confines of Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Descent Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Epic Sushi Party S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Konichiwa S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Left Center T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mind Over Matter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Mind, It Doesn't Matter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
North Overhangs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Opposable Distraction T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pigeon Perch T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pixie, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rest in Peace S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Right Center T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rooftop Rodeo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
South Ridge of the Thumb T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Sucker Punch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thumb Up My Arse T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thumb's Up S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Uphill Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vapor Trail S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Zig Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: bolted by Lawrence Stuemke in the '90s
Page Views: 603 total, 8/month
Shared By: Nathan Welton on Sep 24, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start up Confines of Power, and then branch right halfway up. The crux begins as you negotiate a small roof. After this roof, look right to a pair of positive crimp/jugs, cop an ever-so-small rest, and thrutch through a 10-foot boulder problem consisting of heinous sidepulls and gastons. Clip the anchor from a glory jug.

The bolt that's been missing forever has been replaced, so you can safely climb this without worrying about lobbing 30 feet onto a shelf and breaking both ankles.

This is definitely among the best of Prospect's harder lines.

Protection

8ish bolts + 2 bolt anchor with chains and lowering biners.

Photos

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Did some research regarding this route (thanks, Bernard Gillett), and found out that it was bolted by Lawrence Stuemke in the '90s. From what I can gather, a sizeable runout existed in the middle of the climb, and the route was never redpointed. It seems as though the runout remained until 6/28/13, when a bolt was added to the middle of the climb (thanks, Nathan Welton). Jul 10, 2013
Nathan Welton
Estes Park, CO
 
Nathan Welton   Estes Park, CO
 
JUNE 28, 2013

This route has been updated, and the missing bolt at the crux has been replaced. Have fun! Jun 28, 2013