Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft
FA: Adam Hudson & Stephen Greenway, 1992
Page Views: 164 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a nice, little line with fixed pro on the NE face of The Thumb. It has a pleasant 2nd half of face climbing, which is better than it looks from the ground. The fixed protection on the climb is a bit tough to see from the ground. It shares a start with Right Center, but if you're on toprope, you can start to the left with more face climbing.

Climb up to a short, left-facing, left-arcing dihedral about 20 feet up with a fixed orange TCU. Get up on a small ledge. You can get a couple small wires (#4, 5 BD wires) above the ledge. Spy the 1st baby angle pin. Climb up to this, pass a 2nd baby angle. Clip the fixed wire. Move past (10a), clip a Bugaboo pin. Now, you are faced with a choice. You can go up & left on bigger holds directly to the bolt & skipping the final pin (5.9 PG-13) or go right, slightly down (10b), then up to the final baby angle pin. Move up & then left to the bolt, clip, and fire for the 2 bolt anchor. There are some funky, big, thin, welded rings on the links. There are also a couple hollow, aluminum, rap rings. Rappel 95 feet.

On hot days, it is in the shade by mid-afternoon.

Location

This is on the NE side of Thumb Rock. It is probably 50 ft up & R from where the trail meets the rock.

Protection

Blue & yellow Aliens, medium wire, #2 Camalot, medium wire, #4 & 5 BD wires, 7 QDs (for 4 pins, 1 bolt, 1 fixed wire, 1 fixed TCU), + a 60m rope.

Photos

Joe Varela
Fort Collins, CO
Joe Varela   Fort Collins, CO
There are bolted lines to the left and right of this line. Anyone know the names or details? Jun 7, 2015