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Routes in The Thumb

Blame Canada S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brace Y'self aka Pin Job T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Center Slot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confines of Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Descent Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Epic Sushi Party S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Konichiwa S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Left Center T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mind Over Matter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Mind, It Doesn't Matter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
North Overhangs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Opposable Distraction T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pigeon Perch T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pixie, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rest in Peace S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Right Center T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rooftop Rodeo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
South Ridge of the Thumb T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Sucker Punch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thumb Up My Arse T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thumb's Up S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Uphill Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vapor Trail S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Zig Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft
FA: Adam Hudson & Stephen Greenway, 1992
Page Views: 115 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a nice, little line with fixed pro on the NE face of The Thumb. It has a pleasant 2nd half of face climbing, which is better than it looks from the ground. The fixed protection on the climb is a bit tough to see from the ground. It shares a start with Right Center, but if you're on toprope, you can start to the left with more face climbing.

Climb up to a short, left-facing, left-arcing dihedral about 20 feet up with a fixed orange TCU. Get up on a small ledge. You can get a couple small wires (#4, 5 BD wires) above the ledge. Spy the 1st baby angle pin. Climb up to this, pass a 2nd baby angle. Clip the fixed wire. Move past (10a), clip a Bugaboo pin. Now, you are faced with a choice. You can go up & left on bigger holds directly to the bolt & skipping the final pin (5.9 PG-13) or go right, slightly down (10b), then up to the final baby angle pin. Move up & then left to the bolt, clip, and fire for the 2 bolt anchor. There are some funky, big, thin, welded rings on the links. There are also a couple hollow, aluminum, rap rings. Rappel 95 feet.

On hot days, it is in the shade by mid-afternoon.

Location

This is on the NE side of Thumb Rock. It is probably 50 ft up & R from where the trail meets the rock.

Protection

Blue & yellow Aliens, medium wire, #2 Camalot, medium wire, #4 & 5 BD wires, 7 QDs (for 4 pins, 1 bolt, 1 fixed wire, 1 fixed TCU), + a 60m rope.

Photos

There are bolted lines to the left and right of this line. Anyone know the names or details? Jun 7, 2015