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Routes in Wall Area

Curry the Dog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbledegook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jabberwocky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jacob's Ladder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Laughing Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-see-um T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Age T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Phlegmish Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock and Roll T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SM's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seam of Destinty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smoke Bluff Connection T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sparky's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sphinx'ter Quits T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zombie Roof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim Campbell, P. Kubik July 1980
Page Views: 1,155 total, 8/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

Climb the slightly flared crack just left of Mosquito. Thin gear and technical feet to start before a deceptive crux. Get into good hands up an easing and widening crack to an optional belay. If continuing up Phlegmish Dance, step right across the slab to the second anchor on the bigger ledge.

Protection

Small rack to 3" - emphasis in .4-.75

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
Really good climb, and really tough for the grade in Squamish- felt harder than Exasperator to me.

I used a 0.3, doubles from 0.4 to 1 and some other stuff (nut, #2). Bomber gear- but man, the lack of feet make the crux pretty exciting! Jul 3, 2017
Definitely tricky compared to other routes of the grade in the area. Mainly good locks and very technical feet. I agree that the gear recommendation makes no sense. In BD sizes you'll be able to place from a #1 C3/#0.2 X4 all the way up to a #3 C4. Heavy on #0.4 to #0.75. You may want to have a small-hands cam or a big nut for the last 30 feet, even though it's easy. Oct 9, 2015
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10
Agree that it's tricky, thought the pro was straight forward though. Pumpy on insecure feet, but it's only hard for the first half.

Gear recommendation here is pretty weird too. Take gear from blue metolius to #3 Camalot, plus some small nuts up to finger size. You could get away with yellow metolius to #2 Camalot though. The thin stuff you can see from the ground, but once you pass the crux all the appropriate pro for the next 12m ranges from .75-#3. The grade drops dramatically (~5.8) but it's still a ways to go to the anchor and you'll want a few good pieces to plug. Oct 13, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Clean white rock on this one fools you into thinking that it is dry, but the crack drains water all the way down in wet times, holding water long after rain has stopped. If it is seeping water at the base, be warned- you are in for a sandbag.
That said, the climbing is still very good and reasonably well protected, and worth doing. Rather than finish at the chain anchor, complete the crack system by clipping the chains with a draw and continuing upwards through 'Curry the Dog.' Getting off with require 2 raps, but at lest you get a longer & more continuous pitch than the Smoke Bluffs area normally offers. Jun 4, 2012
This is one of my favorite routes of the grade in the Smoke Bluffs. Bring a small rack from the yellow TCU to #1 Camalot. I placed 1 #2 cam near the top. Aug 31, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Fun. Harder than your typical Squamish 10b. I placed a #2 and #3 camalot higher up, despite the description above. Aug 19, 2008
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
F'in hard (especially when it's raining). Jul 21, 2006