Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim Campbell, P. Kubik July 1980
Page Views: 1,429 total · 9/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

80 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


Climb the slightly flared crack just left of Mosquito. Thin gear and technical feet to start before a deceptive crux. Get into good hands up an easing and widening crack to an optional belay. If continuing up Phlegmish Dance, step right across the slab to the second anchor on the bigger ledge.


Small rack to 3" - emphasis in .4-.75


M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
F'in hard (especially when it's raining). Jul 21, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Fun. Harder than your typical Squamish 10b. I placed a #2 and #3 camalot higher up, despite the description above. Aug 19, 2008
This is one of my favorite routes of the grade in the Smoke Bluffs. Bring a small rack from the yellow TCU to #1 Camalot. I placed 1 #2 cam near the top. Aug 31, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Clean white rock on this one fools you into thinking that it is dry, but the crack drains water all the way down in wet times, holding water long after rain has stopped. If it is seeping water at the base, be warned- you are in for a sandbag.
That said, the climbing is still very good and reasonably well protected, and worth doing. Rather than finish at the chain anchor, complete the crack system by clipping the chains with a draw and continuing upwards through 'Curry the Dog.' Getting off with require 2 raps, but at lest you get a longer & more continuous pitch than the Smoke Bluffs area normally offers. Jun 4, 2012
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
Agree that it's tricky, thought the pro was straight forward though. Pumpy on insecure feet, but it's only hard for the first half.

Gear recommendation here is pretty weird too. Take gear from blue metolius to #3 Camalot, plus some small nuts up to finger size. You could get away with yellow metolius to #2 Camalot though. The thin stuff you can see from the ground, but once you pass the crux all the appropriate pro for the next 12m ranges from .75-#3. The grade drops dramatically (~5.8) but it's still a ways to go to the anchor and you'll want a few good pieces to plug. Oct 13, 2012
Definitely tricky compared to other routes of the grade in the area. Mainly good locks and very technical feet. I agree that the gear recommendation makes no sense. In BD sizes you'll be able to place from a #1 C3/#0.2 X4 all the way up to a #3 C4. Heavy on #0.4 to #0.75. You may want to have a small-hands cam or a big nut for the last 30 feet, even though it's easy. Oct 9, 2015
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
Really good climb, and really tough for the grade in Squamish- felt harder than Exasperator to me.

I used a 0.3, doubles from 0.4 to 1 and some other stuff (nut, #2). Bomber gear- but man, the lack of feet make the crux pretty exciting! Jul 3, 2017
Kyle Wall
Kyle Wall  
Fun route with great locks that requires good balance and body positioning. Get the sequence right and the crux is a breeze.

Gear is small to start, blue to purple camalots, but you'll want a #2 or #3 near the top; it goes for a little longer than you think. May 9, 2018