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Routes in Wall Area

Curry the Dog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbledegook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jabberwocky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jacob's Ladder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Laughing Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-see-um T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Age T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Phlegmish Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock and Roll T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SM's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seam of Destinty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smoke Bluff Connection T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sparky's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sphinx'ter Quits T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zombie Roof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: W. & R. Dorling, 1995
Page Views: 127 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 4, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

A short pitch on its own, but of significantly more merit if continues as a direct finish to SM's Delight. The rock appears broken and rough, but the holds and protection are good.
The pitch is best done as an extension to the single pitch of SM's delight, as it lies directly in line with that climb and is consistent with most of it's climbing.

Location

From the bolt and chain anchor atop SM's delight, this climb is the threaded cracks leaning slightly left, directly overhead.

Protection

A few small cams and stoppers protect this climb, and get you to a 2-bolt anchor (no chains to rap from) up and left, high on the slab above. To retreat without walking Rap or lower in 2 stages as for the anchors on Mosquito back down to the anchors for Mosquito or SM's Delight and re-thread. Even a single 70M won't quite get you down to the base of the lower wall from the top of this.

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