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Routes in Wall Area

Curry the Dog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gobbledegook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jabberwocky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jacob's Ladder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Laughing Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-see-um T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Age T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Phlegmish Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock and Roll T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SM's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seam of Destiny T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smoke Bluff Connection T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sparky's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sphinx'ter Quits T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zombie Roof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Knight, Croft 1978
Page Views: 3,170 total · 25/month
Shared By: Jeremy on May 26, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

A bouldery low crux leads to a nice technical finger crack.

Location

The route starts on the upper tier of the smoke bluff wall.

Protection

Standard rack to 3/4 in.

Photos

brat
  5.10b
brat  
  5.10b
Might be easier than .10b if you're taller. Jul 6, 2009
Adrian Lazar
  5.10a
Adrian Lazar  
  5.10a
I think this is more of a .10a climb as Squamish Guide suggests. This grade would be appropriate for this gem of a climb, even for shorter ppl like me@5'7'' :) as the climb eases off after the bouldery start. Jun 21, 2012
Mark van Eijk
  5.10b
Mark van Eijk  
  5.10b
I imagine it helps to be tall for the start, but I still wouldn't call the opening moves 10a. When compared to other local benchmarks for the grade (p1 of exasperator, the zip) this is certainly a step up in difficulty. Felt harder than the start to seasoned in the sun to me. Difficulties definitely fade after the first 10 feet, but the climbing is still very fun. Jul 10, 2013
Shope Shope
Traveler
 
Shope Shope   Traveler
 
Don't be worried about having enough cams, I only placed two and used nuts for the rest of the route. May 23, 2014
at 5'4" i found the start to be extremely puzzling. short person beta:


reach your right hand around the side to find two small sidepulls, then put your left hand in the shallow crack and bear hug the rock up until you can reach the hand jam in the first deep part of the crack. Aug 1, 2015
Joshua Thompson
Seattle, WA
  5.10b/c
Joshua Thompson   Seattle, WA
  5.10b/c
I'm 5'6" and I seriously struggled with the start. I know a lot of people will disagree, but for me it was harder than a 10-. If I was wearing brand new Miura's with a crispy new toe, it would have helped. Even though I struggled with the first few feet, the climb is awesome! Jul 17, 2017
Daniel Johnson
  5.10b
Daniel Johnson  
  5.10b
Even after a week of dry weather, the start was quite wet. Nothing a little cloth couldn't fix Dec 11, 2017
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
Wish it were longer Sep 9, 2018

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