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SM's Delight

5.10b, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3 from 161 votes
FA: Jim Campbell, P. Kubik July 1980
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Smoke Bluffs > Wall Area
Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb the slightly flared crack just left of Mosquito. Thin gear and technical feet to start before a deceptive crux. Get into good hands up an easing and widening crack to an optional belay. If continuing up Phlegmish Dance, step right across the slab to the second anchor on the bigger ledge.

Protection

Small rack to 3" - emphasis in .4-.75

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SM's Delight Topo
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PC: Amanda
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PC: Amanda
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Fun. Harder than your typical Squamish 10b. I placed a #2 and #3 camalot higher up, despite the description above. Aug 19, 2008
Brian 1
 
[Hide Comment] This is one of my favorite routes of the grade in the Smoke Bluffs. Bring a small rack from the yellow TCU to #1 Camalot. I placed 1 #2 cam near the top. Aug 31, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Clean white rock on this one fools you into thinking that it is dry, but the crack drains water all the way down in wet times, holding water long after rain has stopped. If it is seeping water at the base, be warned- you are in for a sandbag.
That said, the climbing is still very good and reasonably well protected, and worth doing. Rather than finish at the chain anchor, complete the crack system by clipping the chains with a draw and continuing upwards through 'Curry the Dog.' Getting off with require 2 raps, but at lest you get a longer & more continuous pitch than the Smoke Bluffs area normally offers. Jun 4, 2012
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Agree that it's tricky, thought the pro was straight forward though. Pumpy on insecure feet, but it's only hard for the first half.

Gear recommendation here is pretty weird too. Take gear from blue metolius to #3 Camalot, plus some small nuts up to finger size. You could get away with yellow metolius to #2 Camalot though. The thin stuff you can see from the ground, but once you pass the crux all the appropriate pro for the next 12m ranges from .75-#3. The grade drops dramatically (~5.8) but it's still a ways to go to the anchor and you'll want a few good pieces to plug. Oct 13, 2012
[Hide Comment] Definitely tricky compared to other routes of the grade in the area. Mainly good locks and very technical feet. I agree that the gear recommendation makes no sense. In BD sizes you'll be able to place from a #1 C3/#0.2 X4 all the way up to a #3 C4. Heavy on #0.4 to #0.75. You may want to have a small-hands cam or a big nut for the last 30 feet, even though it's easy. Oct 9, 2015
Kyle Wall
Richmond, BC
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Fun route with great locks that requires good balance and body positioning. Get the sequence right and the crux is a breeze.

Gear is small to start, blue to purple camalots, but you'll want a #2 or #3 near the top; it goes for a little longer than you think. May 9, 2018
Andy Cao
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] This thing stays pretty wet after rain - Tony B was spot on about that. I climbed it again today, two days after rain, and the bottom crux section was fairly slimy. Otherwise, a tricky and stout 10b that makes for a very fun project! Aug 30, 2021
Uknown Unknown
Vancouver, BC
 
[Hide Comment] Fun climb, good pro, tricky movements for a 10b. Felt liks a 10c/d onsight,but 10b if you know the beta inside out. Fun route. Sep 7, 2021
Kris Mutafov
Squamish, BC
 
[Hide Comment] Fun crux to a jug. Jun 2, 2022