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Routes in Wall Area

Curry the Dog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gobbledegook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jabberwocky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jacob's Ladder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Laughing Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-see-um T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Age T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Phlegmish Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock and Roll T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SM's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seam of Destiny T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smoke Bluff Connection T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sparky's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sphinx'ter Quits T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zombie Roof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: J. Burbee and J. Frimer 2010
Page Views: 1,019 total · 10/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 3, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

A great, technical seam up a steep headwall is the highlight of this little gem.

Location

The seam splitting the headwall is obvious. Climb the easy corner below to access it.

Protection

RPs/HP offsets (bring a few of the medium to bigger sizes) to #2 camalot. Gear is excellent despite appearances. Rap anchors on top.

Photos

Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10-
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10-
I'm not used to placing that many micronuts in a row. Spooky route for me, but they probably would have held. Also, you can get a few cams in every now and then to supplement the nuts. For the record, the seam is smaller than a grey metolius.

Fun route though. Didn't use the seam that much because it's so thin, found the route was almost like gear-protected face climbing. Apr 2, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
protects really well with rp's and good small (finger sized) cams to pair up with them. technical and a little bold feeling, but your waist is never more than 3' above good gear. a gem, to be sure. Jul 21, 2013
Priti Wright
Seattle, WA
 
Priti Wright   Seattle, WA
 
If you climb this mostly as a crack, without using the large ledges and features on the right, it makes this climb much harder! Fun!? Aug 3, 2015
Mark van Eijk
  5.10b
Mark van Eijk  
  5.10b
Good route to build confidence placing micro gear (tiny nuts / RPs). I agree with Mark R that it feels more like gear-protected sport climbing than crack. Sep 11, 2016
Did some weird mantley mantle move at the crux then placed a two in the pod and went to the chains. Nuts!. Aug 10, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.10a/b
Matt Hagny  
  5.10a/b
Good pro. No need for brassies like the guide book mentions. Small offsets work wonders. Fun movement. Sep 3, 2018
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
Only placed one nut. Thank you, x4s! Sep 9, 2018

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