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> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Smoke Bluffs
> Wall Area
Phlegmish Dance
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.9 from 259
votes
Routes in Wall Area
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Alice T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Alien Sex Fiends S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black and Decker T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Curry the Dog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Decker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gobbledegook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jabberwocky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jacob's Ladder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Laser Tag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Laughing Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mosquito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No-see-um (aka Malaria) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Old Age T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Phlegmish Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pinball Machine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Resoler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rock and Roll T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Seam of Destiny T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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SM's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smoke Bluff Connection T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sparky's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sphinx'ter Quits T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Through the Never S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Two Scoops T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Zombie Roof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 49.7081, -123.141 |
| FA: | Peter Croft (solo) 1978 |
| Page Views: | 5,211 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | ScottH on Sep 8, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
From the top of Mosquito, step slightly right, then continue up thin, parallel cracks to the top. Consistent, interesting 5.8 finger jams and stemming the whole way.
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