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Routes in The Whale

Aborigine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Among the Stars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aphrodite S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Arapiles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Arnold's Demise S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big E S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blow Tube Envy S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bound in Blood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dreamtime S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Esse Curve S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finnacle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Mate S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gomers in Blue Shirts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Stuff, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
HMS S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Happy Ending (formerly Top-Rope) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honeymoon Down Under S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Just Happens S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mister MIA S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Never Ever Slab, The TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Plunge, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Venus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route to the left of The Thin Line S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tempest Toast S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Line, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Undulating Dingo S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Virgin Bolters S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Whale Rider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Stewart Green, Martha Morris, and Mike Heinrichs, September 2004
Page Views: 1,805 total, 13/month
Shared By: Livia on Jul 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

From the guidebook: Another great moderate. Climb a slab to a finishing headwall.

Location

From guidebook: Reach the face by hiking south from where the north cliff access trail reaches the cliff. Hike along the cliff-base until the trail crosses a low angle slab shaded by a large juniper tree.

Routes #7 to #11 were described as: below a clean slab composed of two different sandstone layers.

Other notes: This route is the 11th developed route on the Whale and number #11 in the guidebook.

Addendum: there is a crux move near the top that will be harder for shorter climbers.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Per Paul Vervalin: the anchor bolts have been moved up. It is now ~110'.

Photos

I climbed this route today. The pictures from other users are accurate. This is a six bolt route The fifth bolt up is loose. The hanger and bolt spin. This route breaks left and was a typical slab route with one interesting move near the 5th bolt as you traverse left. It is a little higher (but barley), and I had no problem with my 60 meter rope.

Update. There a about five routes I encountered that had loose nuts. I tightened all of them. If you climb here be sure and have your nut tool to tighten up things.


Oct 24, 2016
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7 PG13
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7 PG13
Nice route, but the first bolt is 25 feet off the ground. A slip before clipping the first bolt would possibly be an ankle breaker due to ledges. Not too difficult, but the grit on the rock or a breaking hold could cause an unexpected fall. Mar 27, 2015
Cody E
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Cody E   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Just like the description above - it's fun, moderate, slab climbing. Lots of great routes to the left and right as well. Solid anchors atop. Feb 4, 2015
WARNING!!! The anchor bolts have been moved up on this route. It is no longer an 80' route. Probably closer to 105' - 110'. A 60m rope will leave you 5-10 feet short of the bottom depending on rope stretch. Not a bad down climb but it would suck to fall that last 5 feet or so if you rapped off the end of your rope. Oct 19, 2014
Kevin Craig  
 
A bit tougher and more interesting than Whale Rider. I'd give TT a 7 and WR a 6. Apr 2, 2008