Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Stewart Green, Martha Morris, and Mike Heinrichs, September 2004
Page Views: 1,977 total · 13/month
Shared By: Livia on Jul 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

From the guidebook: Another great moderate. Climb a slab to a finishing headwall.

Location

From guidebook: Reach the face by hiking south from where the north cliff access trail reaches the cliff. Hike along the cliff-base until the trail crosses a low angle slab shaded by a large juniper tree.

Routes #7 to #11 were described as: below a clean slab composed of two different sandstone layers.

Other notes: This route is the 11th developed route on the Whale and number #11 in the guidebook.

Addendum: there is a crux move near the top that will be harder for shorter climbers.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Per Paul Vervalin: the anchor bolts have been moved up. It is now ~110'.

Photos

Kevin Craig  
 
A bit tougher and more interesting than Whale Rider. I'd give TT a 7 and WR a 6. Apr 2, 2008
WARNING!!! The anchor bolts have been moved up on this route. It is no longer an 80' route. Probably closer to 105' - 110'. A 60m rope will leave you 5-10 feet short of the bottom depending on rope stretch. Not a bad down climb but it would suck to fall that last 5 feet or so if you rapped off the end of your rope. Oct 19, 2014
Cody E
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Cody E   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Just like the description above - it's fun, moderate, slab climbing. Lots of great routes to the left and right as well. Solid anchors atop. Feb 4, 2015
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7 PG13
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7 PG13
Nice route, but the first bolt is 25 feet off the ground. A slip before clipping the first bolt would possibly be an ankle breaker due to ledges. Not too difficult, but the grit on the rock or a breaking hold could cause an unexpected fall. Mar 27, 2015
I climbed this route today. The pictures from other users are accurate. This is a six bolt route The fifth bolt up is loose. The hanger and bolt spin. This route breaks left and was a typical slab route with one interesting move near the 5th bolt as you traverse left. It is a little higher (but barley), and I had no problem with my 60 meter rope.

Update. There a about five routes I encountered that had loose nuts. I tightened all of them. If you climb here be sure and have your nut tool to tighten up things.


Oct 24, 2016