Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Brian Shelton & Chris Jackson, Sept. '04
Page Views: 1,554 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Apr 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


41 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

Edge and smear directly up with some tricky moves past 5 bolts. Continue up easier rock past 3 more bolts.

Location

This route is on the north end of the Whale and starts just right of the big pine tree at the base. It is the first route left of Blow Tube Envy and finishes just left of the obvious, quarried slice of rock at the top of the Whale. Guide info from Stewart Green's publication.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. If I remember right, this anchor is shared with Blow Tube Envy.

Photos

mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.8+
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.8+
Tie knots in your 60m when you do this, 'cause you aren't gonna make it back to the ground. May 24, 2010
Hans Hoffman
D'iberville, MS
  5.9+
Hans Hoffman   D'iberville, MS
  5.9+
Very fun route; my first lead at RRCOS. Lots of smearing up to the 5th bolt and a walk-up pretty much the last 3 bolts. Nov 8, 2010
I went out to RRC yesterday with Brian Shelton, and we replaced the second bolt on Mister MIA. The bolt was actually fine and would not have pulled out under any kind of a leader fall. The outside of the hole had been damaged by someone hammering on the head of the bolt and the nut, which caused some wobble on the part of the bolt outside the hole. We worked for 5 minutes with a crowbar but were unable to remove the bolt and ended up only breaking the shaft of the bolt off below the nut. We placed a new 1/2-inch bolt just left of the abandoned stud. Jan 27, 2015
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Stuart and Brian, thank you for checking this bolt situation out. Your efforts are appreciated by so many in the community. Feb 2, 2015
Ben D.
Colorado
Ben D.   Colorado
The rap rings on this route (which shares the rap rings on Blow Tube Envy) are extremely worn! I'm guessing this is due to people either TR'ing or lowering through the rings. In general, PLEASE rappel after cleaning a route; do NOT lower climbers or (worse) TR through the rap rings. Particularly at Red Rocks and Garden of the Gods, the sandy nature of the rock REALLY wares hard on the fixed gear. Thank you! Dec 14, 2017
Papa J
Denver
  5.9+ R
Papa J   Denver
  5.9+ R
I would recommend this as a TR only if you have just done Blow Tube Envy. See the comments below about running the rope through the rings at the anchor, for a TR it will put too much wear on the rings. The first bolt is too high and needs to be moved. A 5.9 move just before clipping the first bolt, silly. The crux, 5.9+, is after the first bolt. Apr 9, 2018