Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Brian Shelton and Ian Green, '04
Page Views: 2,609 total · 18/month
Shared By: Stubby-Ian Howells on Oct 13, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

Very continous for the grade. The whole bottom half feels like the crux with even a couple moves up top that are hard. If the top half was like the bottom half, it would definitely be four stars. Small crimps, small feet, and balancy is the name of the game. With all the crimps though, definitely stay away from it if a recent storm has come through, as it's likely some of the small holds will blow on you.

Location

To the south of a giant pine tree towards the north end of The Whale, directly below a pothole...you'll notice a lot of small crimps headin' up. It's kind of nestled behind a couple of smaller trees.

Protection

10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Joshua Balke
Colorado Springs
Joshua Balke   Colorado Springs
Right anchor bolt loose. Jul 14, 2007
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.8+
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.8+
Continuous, yes.
5.10, NO!
There were no moves harder than the crux on the other 8 we did here. It's easier than other 5.8 slabs in Colorado. I haven't climbed much in this canyon though.... Feb 23, 2009
Uh yeah, if you read all the postings about the grades you will know that most of the canyon routes are getting easier. Traffic makes bigger holds. Plus it's sandstone and what happens when sandstone erodes? It crumbles and falls off, usually making bigger holds. When this route was put up it was 10a, thin and sustained. Since then it has gotten easier and easier. I climbed it a week ago and agree...5.8+. Mar 6, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
I dunno, pretty damn thin....
Fun route! Oct 30, 2010
Hans Hoffman
D'iberville, MS
  5.9
Hans Hoffman   D'iberville, MS
  5.9
Pretty continuous and full of small crimps. One of the best 5.9s I've climbed on The Whale @ RRCOS. Nov 8, 2010
David W
  5.9
David W  
  5.9
First of all, this is a fun climb! Continuous and crimpy is the name of the game. Honestly, I thought the crux was just left of the big pothole. I ended up climbing into the pothole and clipped the bolt to the left from there. Aug 20, 2013
dane mahaffey
aspen, co
  5.9+
dane mahaffey   aspen, co
  5.9+
The guidebook calls it a 5.9+. Sep 20, 2014
I could just be weak, but the crux moves seem to be lacking a hold just before gaining the moves to the pothole. This section (just before the pothole) was out of character with the rest of the climb. The whole thing seemed like it was 5.8/5.9 except for that section and that section was...hard. Looked like a hold may have broken off as there was some brighter, red looking stone in at least one spot. Feb 15, 2017
Papa J
Denver
  5.9+
Papa J   Denver
  5.9+
My comments are like Byrne below: most of the climb is in the 5.8 to 5.9 range, but the crux moves seem to be lacking a hold just before gaining the moves to the pothole. This section (just before the pothole) was out of character with the rest of the climb. A very nice line, lots of bolts. Apr 9, 2018