Red Rock Canyon Open Space Rock Climbing
|GPS:||38.854, -104.88 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||215,811 total · 1,159/month|
|Shared By:||Stewart M. Green on Nov 8, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Rock climbing is allowed on the East and West Canyon Walls in Red Rock Canyon itself, but nowhere else in the park. Over 90 bolted routes up to 130 feet high ascend the ruddy sandstone walls, offering a marvelous new arena for Pikes Peak region climbers. The climbing is similar to that in the neighboring Garden of the Gods, but offers better stone, excellent protection and rappel anchors, and lots of moderate routes. The park also offers lots of serenity and isolation in a beautiful natural setting.
Due to the crackless nature of the sandstone, all RRC routes are bolted sport climbs with only a handful of routes that also require an occasional cam or nut. All routes are equipped with lowering and rappel anchors. There are 13 distinct cliffs that offer climbing. The rest of the park is off-limits for technical climbing.
Climbing at Red Rock Canyon Open Space is a managed process. At the city's request, a group of local climbers came up with a management plan to create a safe and environmentally-conscious rock climbing area, thereby avoiding all the problems that occur at the Garden of the Gods. Also at the city's request all the routes were established before the park was open. Over 30 local climbers participated in the creation of this new climbing park. A new climber liason group, the Red Rock Canyon Climber's Alliance, is the official intermediary between rock climbers and the city of Colorado Springs. Any climber can join by sending their email address to me.
"Red Rock Canyon Open Space: A Rock Climber's Guide" by Stewart Green was published in early November by the Red Rock Canyon Climber's Alliance. It is available at a nominal price at stores in the Pikes Peak region, including the Mountain Chalet, The Colorado Springs Sport Climbing Center, and the Garden of the Gods Visitor Center. ALL PROCEEDS FROM THE SALE OF THE GUIDEBOOK GO TO SUPPORT CLIMBING AT RED ROCK CANYON AND THE GARDEN OF THE GODS. The guidebook will not be available on the web because of this. Support local climbing areas by purchasing the local guidebook.
Follow an old road east and then south to Red Rock Canyon. It is a half-mile to the lake at the beginning of the climbing area. The road continues up the east side of the canyon, offering access to Westbay Wall, Sayer's Wall, Ripple Wall, Squaw Wall, The Chief, The Wailing Wall, Wiggins Wall, and Coyote Wall. The west side trail accesses The Whale's Tail, The Whale, Solar Slab, and The Quarry Wall. Consult the book for specifics.
Technical climbing at RRCOS is limited to the main section of Red Rock Canyon that leads south from the lake. No technical climbing is permitted in the historic quarry.
"Climbers must not leave colored slings on the walls except in case of an emergency."
"New route development at RRCOS is a managed process. Therefore, no new fixed protection is to be placed at RRCOS without going through an approval process. At the climber's discretion, individual bolts may be replaced for safety reasons. For more information on establishing new routes, contact the Colorado Springs Parks, Recreation & Cultural Services Department at 385.5940. Ask for contact information regarding the Red Rock Canyon Climber's Committee.... Final approval will be made by the Parks, Recreation and Cultural Service Department."
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Classic Climbing Routes at Red Rock Canyon Open Space
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