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Routes in The Whale

Aborigine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Among the Stars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aphrodite S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Arapiles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Arnold's Demise S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big E S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blow Tube Envy S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bound in Blood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dreamtime S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Esse Curve S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finnacle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Mate S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gomers in Blue Shirts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Stuff, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
HMS S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Happy Ending (formerly Top-Rope) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honeymoon Down Under S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Just Happens S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mister MIA S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Never Ever Slab, The TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Plunge, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Venus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route to the left of The Thin Line S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tempest Toast S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Line, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Undulating Dingo S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Virgin Bolters S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Whale Rider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Brian Shelton & Stewart Green, Sept., '04
Page Views: 1,427 total, 12/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Apr 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is a nice climb with 2 distinct cruxes. The first one pulls through a short bulge past two bolts. Then you climb a pretty long runout, up and right, to a steep slab with nice crimps and two more bolts. I gave the PG-13 rating, because if you were to fall prior to clipping the third bolt, it could bounce you off the flatter section of rock and possibly leave you with an injury, but this isn't too bad, and the route is still worth climbing.

Location

This route is on the south end of the Whale, above Never-Ever Slab. From the narrow ledge above Never-Ever Slab, there is a small juniper tree on the left end of the ledge. This route is the third one right of the tree (the first two are Dreamtime and Aborigine, respectively). Guide info from Stewart Green's publication.

Protection

4 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

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