Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Brian Shelton
Page Views: 2,020 total · 15/month
Shared By: Brian Collins on Jan 22, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

Follow indentation up to 3rd bolt, then angle right. Moves and bolts past this point may be hard to see.

Location

This is located on the southern portion of the Whale.

Protection

4 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Heather Ditmore
Colorado Springs
Heather Ditmore   Colorado Springs
On the third bolt, the hanger is super loose. Jun 3, 2013
Patrick Yarbrough
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.5
Patrick Yarbrough   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.5
This route shares an anchor with the route next to it, Bond In Blood (5.8). This route seems like it would be beneficial and practical to add another bolt above the last one and adding an anchor at the top of the cliff. It is steep enough up there that no rope drag would be added, and that would make leading perhaps a bit more straightforward.

Moreover, the rappel rings at the anchor are very worn and look like many people have been top roping directly through the rings. I would keep an eye on them, but they're fine for now. For future climbers: please respect that someone has taken their time and effort to install these rappel rings for your use and safety. Please supplement the anchor with your own gear if you want to top rope this route. Aug 28, 2014
Noah Yetter
Lakewood, CO
  5.6 R
Noah Yetter   Lakewood, CO
  5.6 R
I really don't understand the point of putting up climbs as unsafely bolted as this. A fall between the 2nd and 3rd bolt is just about a guaranteed ankle-breaker. Given the sandy nature of the rock at RRCOS, a fall is ALWAYS a real possibility, even for a skilled climber on easy moves, so why deliberately create that much unnecessary risk? Nov 12, 2017