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Routes in The Whale

Aborigine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Among the Stars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aphrodite S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Arapiles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Arnold's Demise S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big E S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blow Tube Envy S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bound in Blood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dreamtime S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Esse Curve S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finnacle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Mate S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gomers in Blue Shirts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Stuff, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
HMS S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Happy Ending (formerly Top-Rope) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honeymoon Down Under S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Just Happens S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mister MIA S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Never Ever Slab, The TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Plunge, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Venus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route to the left of The Thin Line S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tempest Toast S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Line, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Undulating Dingo S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Virgin Bolters S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Whale Rider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: lower section: Brian Shelton & Stewart Green, Aug. '04 / upper section: Mark Tjaden & Brian Shelton, Oct. '04
Page Views: 1,962 total, 17/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Apr 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

Climb flakes up to a steep section with a mantle crux. Continue up the face left of a shallow right-facing corner to a narrow ledge with a bolt. Continue up the face above on easier (5.7) climbing to anchors on a ledge at the top of the face.

Location

This route is on the north end of the Whale and begins directly behind the large pine tree at the base, and below a shallow right-facing corner. The route is in between Aphrodite on the left and Mister MIA on the right. Guide info from Stewart Green's publication.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
David Tennant
Denver, CO
 
David Tennant   Denver, CO
 
Found the first bolt to be committing, although with a great stance to clip from. Thought it was 5.7 for the first 12ft and then had to do two difficult moves to get to the stance to clip the first bolt at about 18ft. Thought this was an awesome line. Well-bolted for the hardest parts of the route down low. 60m works with knots. Also the tree next to the start provides pretty good summer shade for the first few bolts to avoid some heat. Aug 12, 2015
Layne Hunton
Springfield, MO
  5.10a
Layne Hunton   Springfield, MO
  5.10a
I was on a 60m rope also. I made the ground on the tips of my toes and knots in the rope but made it. May 29, 2014
We did it on a 60m. If the leader cleans the draws, it's just long enough. A 70m is better though. Apr 2, 2012
S.Stelli
Colorado Springs, CO
 
S.Stelli   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Just climbed this weekend with a 60m rope. Had no trouble getting down at all, just take the last few steps easy. You can hold both ends of the rope and stand on the ground. A 70m rope would mean that you had 9.5m of rope on the ground doing nothing. This is a FUN line. Anchor placement is totally fine. May 31, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Didn't do a mantel, just careful foot work. Love the sidepulls!

Note: this is another rope stretcher, a 60m does not make it to the ground. You can get safely off this route with a 60m but be careful! Oct 30, 2010