Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Brian Shelton, Mike Heinrichs, and Stewart Green, Sept 2004
Page Views: 4,824 total · 32/month
Shared By: Anna Moore on Jul 15, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

Climb a shallow, right-facing corner (protect with a #2 Camalot) and stand up on a flake. Climb up left (5.7 move) past a bolt. Continue up left to another bolt and then climb directly up the face above to a tricky finish. Belay from bolts on a shelf left of the prominent, quarried slice.

Location

This is the route that finishes just to the left of the 2 big cuts on the Whale. Start just right of the big ponderosa pine. Rappel with double ropes or a 200 foot (60 meter) rope which reaches some foothold (with rope stretch) a few feet off the ground.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Bring #2 Camalot also for protection in the first corner.

Photos

Anna Moore
  5.7
Anna Moore  
  5.7
We climbed this today, definitely should be a morning climb, cause it got pretty toasty on the slab going up around noon. Also, we kinda suspect some flaking off at the part you should be able to cam in at. Reason being we couldn't get our cam to stick, maybe it should be checked out just to be sure, then if a bigger cam should be recommended, someone can recommend it. Jul 15, 2006
Joshua Balke
Colorado Springs
Joshua Balke   Colorado Springs
When I climbed this, I didn't find any need for the cam, but then again I have long arms to reach out for the first bolt. The top is definitely tricky and commiting. The moves scared me much more that the crux. Aug 24, 2006
drusch
5.8-
drusch  
5.8-
We used a 60m rope and had no problems at all. I'd tie a knot in the end just to be sure the belayer doesn't let it through the belay device. I also had no problem getting a #2 Cam in. FYI this route is a little harder than the rest of the 5.7s in the RROS. It's not hard but compared to some of the other 5.7s on the Whale, it is harder, I'd give it a RROS 5.8-. Mar 24, 2008
Michael West
Enterprise, AL
 
Michael West   Enterprise, AL
 
I didn't think you needed a cam. Some of the top moves are scary. Jun 8, 2008
KateC  
Seemed like the pro below the first bolt was definitely optional. I am a shorter climber (5'2") and found getting out on the slab at the first bolt much harder than 5.7. Maybe I wasn't on route, but that part was tricky. Sep 30, 2008
Mike McMahon
Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
Mike McMahon   Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
I clipped the first bolt of Mr. MIA and then traversed to the first bolt of this route.... This variation seemed a bit more difficult than 5.7.... Aug 3, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Led this entirely on the face. Was going to clip the first bolt of Mr. MIA, but I didn't like how the traverse looked, so I just went straight up. Tied off the bush and continued to the first bolt. Felt maybe 5.9. I wish the FA team had bolted it this way as the corner system is really just 4th class, maybe very low 5th. Oct 30, 2010
Mark D
Lakewood, CO
Mark D   Lakewood, CO
There is an important flake that is flexing heavily and close to breaking just past the final bolt. Don't pull too hard or it will come off the wall along with you! Dec 4, 2013
Jacob Williams
Fort Collins, CO
5.8-
Jacob Williams   Fort Collins, CO
5.8-
Agreed that this is harder than most 5.7s at RRCOS, the move right before the anchors got my heart pounding on lead. On the left side of that ledge, there is a piece of flakey rock that you can get a side hold on, but it's close to breaking. I wouldn't use it for a hand hold - traverse further right. Oct 27, 2014
Ben D.
Colorado
5.8-
Ben D.   Colorado
5.8-
Not recommended for new leaders as the runouts are quite heady and getting to the first bolt is a little tricky. Also, a fall between the 1st and 2nd bolts and between the 2nd and 3rd bolts would result in a nasty pendulum. In addition to the #2 in the flake below the first bolt, I slung the little tree/shrub growing out of the flake which seemed more critical to protecting against a bad tumble than the #2. Overall, not worth doing this route unless you are trying to setup a TR on Mister MIA, in which case, I would just lead Mister MIA which although a little harder, is a much safer climb. Nov 5, 2017
Ben D.
Colorado
5.8-
Ben D.   Colorado
5.8-
The rap rings on this route (which shares the rap rings on Mister MIA) are extremely worn! I'm guessing this is due to people either TR'ing or lowering through the rings. In general, PLEASE rappel after cleaning a route; do NOT lower climbers or (worse) TR through the rap rings. Particularly at Red Rocks and Garden of the Gods, the sandy nature of the rock REALLY wares hard on the fixed gear. Thank you! Dec 14, 2017
Papa J
Denver
  5.8
Papa J   Denver
  5.8
Climbed this yesterday, do suggest to bring a 2 or 3 cam. The crux is the bulge just before the belay (5.8). Seemed like a nice line. Apr 9, 2018