Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Stewart Green, Martha Morris and Brian Shelton
Page Views: 4,677 total · 31/month
Shared By: Brendan Leonard on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

From the RRCOS guidebook: An excellent lead on perfect stone. Begin off the left side of the narrow ledge system above the Never Ever Slab.

Eds. be careful on the ledge approaching the climb. A trip could send you plummeting a long way.

Location

From the guidebook: On the far left or south side of the Whale. It's easiest to access them by the path that climbs the left side of the lower slab, then back across the slab top to the cliff base.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Same anchor as Dreamtime, which is to the left.

Photos

Brendan Leonard
Denver, Hollarado
  5.7
Brendan Leonard   Denver, Hollarado
  5.7
Dreamtime (5.5) right next door uses the same rap anchors as this one, so you can climb Dreamtime to set up a toprope on both routes. Sep 27, 2006
Jim Gloeckler
Denver, Colo.
Jim Gloeckler   Denver, Colo.
Nice climb! Two stars at least. Nov 7, 2006
Ross D
Bozeman, MT
Ross D   Bozeman, MT
Second to last bolt was loose enough to spin the hanger. I didn't have a wrench handy :-( Dec 19, 2010
David Tennant
Denver, CO
 
David Tennant   Denver, CO
 
In the Stewart Green guide, there is a photo which shows a bolt somewhere along the belay ledge, but I was unable to find it. The consequence of this is that when going to the first bolt, be aware that a fall will result in the leader and belayer tumbling all the way down The Never Ending Slab (~80 ft). Climb Dreamtime (5.5) to the left which shares the same anchor if in doubt. Jan 29, 2016
There is no belay bolt on the ledge below the route. If you want to be tied in while belaying, use the 2-bolt anchor at the top of the Never Ever Slab directly below the ledge and route. Feb 19, 2016