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Routes in S-Curve - Upper Wall

Beware of Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bite the Wall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Clean Underwear S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devious Dogs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Geronimo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get a Grip S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Get a Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glenlivet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gravy Train T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
High Dive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Feat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Megalopolis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skyscraper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Teaming Metropolis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Urban Sprawl S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Gordon Douglass, Stuart Ruckman 1990
Page Views: 1,647 total, 12/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 25, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This route is pretty pumpy throughout. First clip isn't easy, third is even harder. The book shows the crux at the third bolt. This was definitely hard, but not the crux. Getting above the fourth bolt seemed a lot harder, as you were dealing with slopers and thin crimps to pull the lip.

Location

This is the left route of the two that share the anchor left of Urban Sprawl.

Protection

5 bolts and chains

Photos

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dnaiscool  
 
One of the very best lines at the entire S-Curve arena!! If you are a 5.11 climber, then put your A Game on and work this for the on-sight, hanging those draws as you go! Apr 21, 2015
jspitzer  
 
Awesome route! The bolts look far apart from the ground but there are big jugs in between bolts.
Clipping bolt #3 is the crux with a little secret hold you need to find.

Enjoy! Nov 3, 2012
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.11a
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.11a
Fun once I figured out the cryptic moves. Feb 1, 2011
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11a
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11a
Awesome route! There is a hidden sidepull to unlock the crux. If you don't find it (took me about 7 tries to do so) good luck getting to the 5th bolt! Sep 8, 2006