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Routes in S-Curve - Upper Wall

Beware of Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bite the Wall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Clean Underwear S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devious Dogs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Geronimo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get a Grip S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Get a Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glenlivet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gravy Train T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
High Dive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Feat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Megalopolis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skyscraper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Teaming Metropolis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Urban Sprawl S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brian, Jonathon, and Vicki Smoot 1990
Page Views: 3,420 total, 19/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 7, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


94 Opinions

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Description

This is the furthest east climb on the upper wall. Steep and juggy, but not a hard climb. There is a climb above it (5.11b).

Protection

2 bolts for the anchors, and 5 draws for the climb.

Photos

Zandy
Salt Lake City, UT
Zandy   Salt Lake City, UT
Looks like all of the bolts and perhaps anchors on the S-Curve walls and the Pile have been recently replaced:
saltlakeclimbers.org/re-bol… Jul 5, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
This is a terrific sport climb for the grade, as a warm-up or to take beginning (...strong...) friends on. I love it every time, and the setting is fantastic..great views from up there. Apr 21, 2015
Laura T
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Laura T   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Did this route yesterday and the chains looked fine. Someone added a new link at the end of the anchors too. Thanks! Sep 27, 2014
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.8
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.8
Typical s-curves. Steep, pumpy, fun. As mentioned bottom rings of anchors could use a little lovin.. Apr 19, 2014
zoso
 
zoso  
 
That's refreshing. Thanks for not being a member of the Entitlement Generation. Apr 14, 2014
Bonneville Williams
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
Bonneville Williams   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
Just climbed this Saturday, April 12th, 2014. The last link on each of the chains is looking super sketchy. They're pretty worn out and need to be replaced. I personally don't have experience bolting or replacing hardware. If anyone out here in the SLC area is willing, I'd be down to contribute some cash and personal time to help make this happen. If so, contact me yo! Cheers! Apr 14, 2014
Mark Alston
  5.8 PG13
Mark Alston  
  5.8 PG13
A small piece of rope has been left in one of the slots that your rope would otherwise try to slip into. I last climbed this is '94. Still a good route. Easy to accidentally track off route to the right on TR. Mar 17, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Great bolting, not too long, not too short. You get a lot of value for this climb. Dec 20, 2012
DCrane
Taylorsville, Utah
  5.8
DCrane   Taylorsville, Utah
  5.8
If you plan to have someone toprope, you can extend the anchors with cordelettes - I used two 20-foot cords, each tied to make a 10 foot loop, and this got to just above the ledge, used some runners to extend a bit more - careful of that lip on your cords/runners though, a bag or shirt keeps them from getting sawed in half.
Extending is crucial here and with the route to the left to keep your rope from wearing on that lip. Otherwise, I would avoid toproping here. Apr 22, 2012
Michael Buchanan  
  5.8
Fun. Big jugs, cool bulges. Just when you thinks you should have a bolt, BAM there is one. Apr 20, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Fun ! Can be run in one pitch with the upper part (11b I believe), although rope drag can be a problem. Watch for the slot that Lee mentioned, you can feel it eating through your rope when you lower. Sep 8, 2006
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.8
This route is really fun for the grade. Most sport routes in this grade range usually seem like afterthoughts. Does anyone know why the moderate to the left is so sparsely bolted? Jul 12, 2005
Lee Gitlin
  5.8+
Lee Gitlin  
  5.8+
After clipping the anchors, the rope will want to find a slot in the top roof. This makes for mucho rope friction if your second prefers to toprope. May 13, 2004