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Routes in S-Curve - Upper Wall

Beware of Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bite the Wall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Clean Underwear S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devious Dogs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Geronimo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get a Grip S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Get a Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glenlivet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gravy Train T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
High Dive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Feat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Megalopolis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skyscraper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Teaming Metropolis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Urban Sprawl S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Brian and Jonathan Smoot, 1990
Page Views: 1,243 total, 11/month
Shared By: Shaun Greene on Oct 7, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

This line is actually a lot more fun than it looks and not nearly as contrived as it may appear. This is the roof above geronimo on the far east end of the upper s-turns area. From the anchors atop geronimo one will see the obvious line of bolts that diaganol climbers left up and over the roof. Steep but juggy climbing prevails with a fun leftward traverse clipping three bolts. The crux is between the last and second to last bolt at the uppermost lip of the roof and is stout. From below, the holds around the lip look much better than they actually are.

Location

Climb Geronimo and from the anchors you will see the obvious line of bolts that climb lefward and over the roof. Anchors at the top, rap down to geronimo, one more rap to the ground.

Protection

All bolts. Rap Anchors at the top of the route.

Photos

KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
 
Rope draaaag. One of the holds up there is rather sketchy - it moved slightly when I was hanging on it. Way exposed! Jul 1, 2014
Nate Watkins
Cambridge, Ma
  5.11a/b
Nate Watkins   Cambridge, Ma
  5.11a/b
I found this route to be quite fun! Good movement on good holds with a solid crux right before the chains. When you get to the crux it's definitely not as obvious where you go, but hey when you find it you'll know. Rope drag is still pretty bad even with long slings on the 3 bolts. Jun 16, 2014
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
  5.11a
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
  5.11a
This route is very fun if you link it right after geronimo. Make sure to bring at least 2 or 3 longer slings: one for the chains on geronimo, and 2 for the next 2 bolts after the chains. The climb is not as hard as it seams! You're pulling the largest jugs I have ever seen. It's feels like a 5.10b to a short V1 crux. The crux is right after the last bolt to the chains. Overall it's a pretty fun route. Mar 30, 2010
Riddler
Centerville, UT
 
Riddler   Centerville, UT
 
A fun extension to Geronimo. If you take care to alleviate rope drag, it is easily led in one pitch from the ground. You can rap all the way to the ground from the top of High Dive with a single 60m. Nov 23, 2008