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Routes in S-Curve - Upper Wall

Beware of Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bite the Wall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Clean Underwear S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devious Dogs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Geronimo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get a Grip S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Get a Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glenlivet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gravy Train T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
High Dive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Feat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Megalopolis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skyscraper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Teaming Metropolis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Urban Sprawl S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Brian Smoot, Rich Carlston 1990
Page Views: 3,924 total, 22/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

A long route up the middle part of The Upper S Curve Wall. Just right of the obvious dihedral. 1st bolt is an awkward clip. Big exposure and some small roofs, along with slick slabs make for the best route on the upper wall. At the 6th bolt angle right. If you angle left, there will be a 5.10 move.

Protection

Slings for the tree at the top for anchor. 9 draws for the climb. You can bring a small selection of gear for the spaces between fixed gear.
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Definitely not a sport route. I think some original pitons might be missing or I couldn't find them. Bring a set of nuts a couple cams up to .75 and you are set. Most of the bolts looked like they had been replaced. There were 1 or 2 of the originals that looked sketchy. You can get a cam in the crack to protect the tricky moves to the first bolt. You'll still hit the ledge you start on but not the ground at least. For the rappel, our 70m rope just made it to the ledge with some stretch. Nov 16, 2015
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9-
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9-
A couple of the bolts on this route are starting to get fairly grungy. Fortunately most if not all of them can be backed up with pieces nearby. I would highly recommend bringing a selection of cams unless you like running it out 20-30 feet between aging bits of hardware. Some judicious use of alpine draws will help keep the rope drag manageable. Rap off Glenlivet anchors with a single 70m. Apr 12, 2014
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.8+
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.8+
Did a hold break off at the first bolt? Seemed very awkward/hard for 5.8 but maybe its cause I haven't climbed forever? You can get a good .75 camalot (and 1 too) below it which I'd recommend! Also all the bolts/hangers on this are old - if you find a newer painted hanger you've wandered onto Glenlivet. Mar 12, 2012
Jaren
NC
Jaren   NC
My memory is a bit shakey of the day but back in 1997 I got off route moving a bit left of the line. Ended up putting in two nuts that were more phychological than anything and the end result was a 70ft whipper that broke my ankle. Not a fun hike down. Its a bit run out so make sure you know where the route goes. Nov 4, 2011
JRohde
seattle, washington
 
JRohde   seattle, washington
 
super fun climb. fairly run out for big cottonwood standards. bring a second rope to rap down... Sep 25, 2010
Mark Dexheimer
Midvale, UT
 
Mark Dexheimer   Midvale, UT
 
Glenlivet is to the left of Skyscraper, but it is a TRAD route. Skyscraper is the only sport route on this section of wall. Just so you know. Knowing this will save you hours of trying to find the Bolts on the left that aren't there. Aug 13, 2010
Mark Dexheimer
Midvale, UT
 
Mark Dexheimer   Midvale, UT
 
This route is bolted so it CAN be climbed as a sport route, but the bolts are 20-25 feet apart. So you have to climb about 45 feet before you are actually protected from a ground fall. Recommend that SOME trad gear be used, but it not REQUIRED. Aug 13, 2010
Mark Dexheimer
Midvale, UT
 
Mark Dexheimer   Midvale, UT
 
Great route. Pretty chunky climb with a few sheer spots to make it a challenge. Remember to hook your shoes up with you unless you want to hike down in your climbing shoes (my mistake). Aug 12, 2010
Riddler
Centerville, UT
 
Riddler   Centerville, UT
 
Sweet exit. Be wise with your runners (on both gear and bolts) or you might get some nasty rope drag. Tri-cams work well on this route. Aug 7, 2009
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Route to the left is Glenlivet. 10a*** imo. Similiar to Skyscraper, just a tad harder. One of my favorites up there. May 31, 2009
John Steiger  
5.9
One of the pins shown in Ruckmans' guide appears to be missing, but the protection is still there if you look for it. Yeah, a 70 meter rope will allow a rap from good bolts to get down (just). (Mobley, I'm not sure what route you are talking about; maybe you are referring to Glenlivet, but I don't think that is 5.10+ -- maybe you were talking about Bite the Wall?). Apr 18, 2008
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
bring two ropes or a 70m rope to get down from the new route on the left(chains).

the new route is a mixed 10+. 2 out of 3 stars Oct 12, 2006
Great fun route. But there is another route part way up that heads left. Anyone know anything about that climb? At the top, there were two sets of belay anchors. Oct 1, 2005
Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8+
Spencer Anderson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8+
When I did the route today I found anchors at the top, didn't need to use the tree. P.S. Bring a rope longer than 60m. Mar 12, 2005