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Routes in S-Curve - Upper Wall

Beware of Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bite the Wall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Clean Underwear S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devious Dogs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Geronimo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get a Grip S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Get a Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glenlivet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gravy Train T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
High Dive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Feat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Megalopolis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skyscraper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Teaming Metropolis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Urban Sprawl S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Brian Smoot, 1990
Page Views: 865 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Climb an easy corner and around the right side of a pinon pine to the bottom of the steep face. The first bolt is about 30 feet off the deck. Cruise past the first three bolts with a few mantles and good footwork, clip the fourth bolt and chalk up for the slopers. Pulls on slopers get you to the lip, stand up and pull over the lip (not as easy as it sounds). There is another sizeable gap between the fourth and firth bolts, but the climbing is easy. Climb up a corner under the roof and traverse left to the sixth bolt. Undercling with your fingertips, get your feet up to a lieback stance and throw over the roof into a fingerlock before you fall, then reach for the jug under the final roof. You can clip the anchors from this stance. I suppose you could pull the last roof for an airy finish, but I was super pumped already. The rock quality is great, though a little dirty in places. Bite the Wall felt harder than Black Monday (not as steep, but a lot more technical).

Location

Just left (West) of Skyscraper (5.8), behind a pinon pine tree growing out of the rock.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 chain anchor.

Photos

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