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Routes in S-Curve - Upper Wall

Beware of Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bite the Wall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Clean Underwear S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devious Dogs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Geronimo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get a Grip S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Get a Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glenlivet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gravy Train T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
High Dive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Feat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Megalopolis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skyscraper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Teaming Metropolis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Urban Sprawl S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Jeff Baldwin, 2000
Page Views: 287 total · 2/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Apr 18, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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19 Opinions

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Description

On the slabby face 25 or so feet left of Skyscraper is a line of 8 bolts with (fading) painted hangers. The first 5 are widely spaced, but there is good protection to be had in incipient cracks and horizontals. The crux section is short and well protected, around the 4th bolt if I remember right. The route veers close to Skyscraper mid-way, but it's a good line -- about as good as they get on the Upper S Curve. NB- Date of FA from Calderone's 2017 BCC guide, which rates this as 5.9+.

Location

A 70m rope will get you down from good bolts on top. I don't think a 60m rope will do it, which would mean walking off to the west.

Protection

Cams 1 1/2 inches and below, wired nuts, and slings.

Photos

Darren Knezek
  5.10b
Darren Knezek  
  5.10b
A super fun line with a tricky ending. It's called, Glenlivet and was FA'd by one of the strongest climbers I've ever climbed with. He's put up many of the routes in Utah and his name is............Jeff Baldwin. May 22, 2008
ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
Did this one yesterday for the first time (its not in the Ruckman guide ya know). Similar quality to Skyscraper, highly recommended, thought-provoking, etc, etc, fun airy finish. Used four little cams to supplement. Rap hangars at the top. Bring a second rope to rap this and Skyscraper as the descent trail is not really a trail. Jun 28, 2010
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
You can just barely rap with a 60m rope into the corner and downclimb from there. If you attempt this, I recommend lowering (or single rope rapping) the first person and then clipping in to one of the ends during for the downclimb (to create drag). Also I was glad to have a 2 camalot to clip between two of the bolts. Sep 21, 2012
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I usually climb trad in LCC and felt this to be on the soft end of 10a, but thoughtful and super fun. Was definitely worth taking some gear to supplement the bolts. We were fine rapping with a 70. Jul 20, 2013
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Thought-provoking and full value fun! Even with gear, it is a slightly sporty lead. Felt standard 10a to me (LCC notwithstanding). Apr 13, 2015

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