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Routes in S-Curve - Upper Wall

Beware of Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bite the Wall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Clean Underwear S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devious Dogs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Geronimo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get a Grip S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Get a Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glenlivet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gravy Train T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
High Dive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Feat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Megalopolis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skyscraper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Teaming Metropolis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Urban Sprawl S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1990
Page Views: 2,504 total, 15/month
Shared By: Lee Gitlin on May 12, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


67 Opinions

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Description

Very steep and juggy, with two roofs to pull at the top. On lead, failing to clip the bolts atop the roofs could prang you into the jagged rocks below. The route actually moves left of the final roof, then right to the anchors. This route shares anchors with Clean Underwear (5.9) immediately to its east. So you could lead Clean Underwear first if you'd prefer to toprope, but be advised: the toprope will tend to yank you right, off route.

Protection

Five bolts, bomber links at the anchors.

Photos

Mulch
SLC, Utah
 
Mulch   SLC, Utah
 
Left bolt on the anchor is a spinner. Next person to climb it should give it a quick tightening. Oct 21, 2017
Mulch
SLC, Utah
 
Mulch   SLC, Utah
 
Last roof is killer if you go straight through it. I'd say 10b if you do. Bring a cam or two for the runout. Oct 21, 2017
Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a/b PG13
Cassidy Thomas   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a/b PG13
I top roped it. I went straight up the bolt line. I want to go back and do it on lead but I noticed it good be a bit of a gnarly fall if you mess up on the crux at the bulge. If you go right over the bulge it felt a little harder than some other 10a's in BCC. Jul 4, 2016
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.10a PG13
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.10a PG13
While somewhat runout, the climbing in between is easy. Keep your head and you'll do fine. Plenty of places to rest and shakeout. Steep and juggy. Fun climb Apr 19, 2014
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
  5.10a PG13
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
  5.10a PG13
pretty sustained, hit it up. Feb 22, 2013
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Long sling recommended for bolt 4. If you TRing it, be sure to back-clip bolts 5, 4 (long), and 3. I think the crux is at the bottom - consider a stick clip or treating as a boulder problem and clipping the 1st bolt when its at your waist. Great route! Mar 12, 2012
Michael Buchanan
  5.10a
Michael Buchanan  
  5.10a
Biiiiiiiiggggg Jugs with lots of rests. Not sure it is all that runout, felt pretty standard to me. Super fun! Apr 20, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10a
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10a
Steep and fun 10a. Definitely feels a bit runout between the 3rd and 4th bolt, but it's on easy ground. Don't fall, and if you're grabbing a bad hold you're probably missing a jug nearby. The traverse under the roof heading right is weird, the really low hands force you to arch backward if you don't want to rub your face on the rock. Interesting moves. Oct 7, 2008
Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
  5.10a
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
  5.10a
Strange bolt placements. Use long Runners through the crux. Oct 7, 2008
Nathan Fisher
  5.10a PG13
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10a PG13
Good route. Fits right in to the area. Looking up at the distance between bolt 3 & 4, I felt there must be another bolt. However, when you get there and realize there isn't, it isn't that big of a deal as it pretty easy climbing. Apr 25, 2006
Rebecca Airmet
Salt Lake City, UT
5.10a
Rebecca Airmet   Salt Lake City, UT
5.10a
If you plan on top-roping this, consider clipping the bolts on rappel to avoid the swing to the right. This will also allow you to actually get back on the route if you pop off. There are also now two sets of anchors at the top, one each for this and Clean Underwear, right next to each other. Sep 5, 2005
Is there supposed to be a bolt in between #3 and #4? That is a pretty big fall (possible grounder) and considering how well everything else is bolted... it seems like one belongs there. Also, above #3 do u head straight up the bulge or hang right or left? Straight up seemed harder than 10a but going right or left seems off route. Mar 15, 2005