Mountain Project Logo

Routes in S-Curve - Upper Wall

Beware of Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bite the Wall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Clean Underwear S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devious Dogs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Geronimo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get a Grip S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Get a Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glenlivet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gravy Train T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
High Dive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Feat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Megalopolis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skyscraper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Teaming Metropolis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Urban Sprawl S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Brian and Jonathon Smoot 1990
Page Views: 2,758 total, 16/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 7, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


75 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

On the east end of The Upper Wall are many bolted lines. This is the 2nd from the east. It starts atop a small pedestal. It then climbs juggy roofs to the anchors.

Protection

2 bolts for the anchors and 4 draws for the climb.

Photos

Garrett C
SL,UT
 
Garrett C   SL,UT
 
All those chalked holds to the left of the second bolt are hilarious. Desperately tried to find a decent hold on any of them, but they were all bad. Went right and was much easier. Standard s-curve climbing - steep and pumpy. Apr 19, 2014
Mark Alston
  5.9
Mark Alston  
  5.9
Lots of false chalked holds at the crux (2nd bolt) on the left. Everyone and his dog has chalked up are desperately grabbed for holds that way. Go right after 2nd bolt and you will be good. Psyched me out first attempt and wasted a ton of energy trying to go left. Mar 17, 2013
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
To stay left at the crux requires a pretty good ape-index. I'd advise staying right if you don't have one! Mar 12, 2012
Michael Buchanan  
  5.8
Fun. Chill. One of my first leads years ago. Apr 20, 2010
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.9+ R
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.9+ R
Whats with the spacy bolting on one of the harder parts of the climb with potential decking on the big boulder? Definitely don't try going left of the bolt or left up the roof makes it a lot harder and scarier. Jul 23, 2007
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9
There are so many chalked "holds" at the crux, it's not even funny any more. Last time i was warming-up on this route without paying too much attention to what I was doing and I did a long reach for something that was about as covered in chalk as this flake on one of the Gate boulders. I was expecting a bucket-sized jug, it turned out to be a sloppy old bulge that would have felt good on a 5.13... I decked on the ramp below and was almost too scared to get back up to retrive my draw before bailing... Sep 8, 2006
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.9
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.9
As of 4/29/2006, there are separate anchors for Urban Sprawl (5.10a) to the left (west). Apr 29, 2006
Lee Gitlin
  5.9
Lee Gitlin  
  5.9
The crux is right after the second bolt. We went right of the bolt. Lots of nice jugs and body position is helpful, since the route is steep. This route shares anchors with the .10a immediately west. May 13, 2004