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Routes in The Headstone

Alienist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chickenhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clouds of Jupiter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Epitaph, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Haus Flake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Head Games T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Io S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Noble Savage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rampart Rage, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Razor Burn S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Remote Control S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Nazi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scratchy Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slab Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Topaz S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
V-Slaught, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Hausmann
Page Views: 118 total, 1/month
Shared By: cranshark on Jul 26, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

The climb is located about 30 feet to the right of Remote Control and about 20 feet to the left of the boulder that you can crawl under to get to Crimpfest Wall.

The first pitch is a short 5.8+ warm up that starts up a flake that goes up and to the left, then on to slab for about 20 feet to the anchors.

The second pitch goes up and to the right of the first pitch anchors and then traverses back over the first pitch anchors. There is a difficult bulge to overcome followed by a very intimidating roof with another roof just above it.

Both pitches can be climbed as one with a 60m rope but you will need to [rappel] to the first pitch anchors to get off the climb.

Protection

The first pitch is 5 bolts plus anchors. The second pitch is 11 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

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Tommy Ormond
Eldorado Springs, CO
Tommy Ormond   Eldorado Springs, CO
Sex Panther. 60% of the time it works every time.
Boom. Sep 10, 2012
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
Cool route. The roof is kind of funny. You get about 90% of the way through it and think you are in good shape, but the last 10% is a struggle. I used literally every part of my body on the last 10%. The climbing above the roof is very nice and has several minor cruxes as well. Jul 30, 2011
Excellent route! Mostly pretty straight forward climbing with one hard crux move at the lip of the roof. I would say that the crux is harder for tall people. You can get sort of a rest on the lip of the roof with a heel toe cam and a leg bar, but then you still have to squirm to stand-up. Sep 1, 2006
cranshark  
 
I really enjoyed this route. I'm sure it will soon become a classic up there along with Remote Control. It's still a little dirty, we cleaned it up a bit but not too much to take the fun out of discovering the beta yourself.

Mike Crandall Jul 28, 2005