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Routes in The Headstone

Alienist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chickenhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clouds of Jupiter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Epitaph, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Haus Flake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Head Games T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Io S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Noble Savage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rampart Rage, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Razor Burn S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Remote Control S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Nazi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scratchy Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slab Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Topaz S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
V-Slaught, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Scott Sills and Janice Harnak
Page Views: 1,675 total · 14/month
Shared By: bert honea on Jun 2, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

We tried this route last weekend based on the recommendation of new guidebook. It takes the line just left of Topaz. The first 30 feet are awkward trad and then very thin face climbing past several (7?) bolts lead to a belay just left of Topaz first anchor. Having done several 10 and 11a routes earlier we felt the 10b rating was pretty conservative - more like 10+. Harder than Black Wave for sure (11a). Other thoughts?

An excellent outing though a bit lichenified. We rapped this pitch due to time constraints but would have chosen to finish on Topaz.

Per Dave Holliday:
Pitch 2: 9+; move up and left from the anchor atop the first pitch into a groove. Stem it with a hand and fist crack on the right and a finger crack on the left. Get tucked under a small roof and pull up through it via a thin-hand to hand crack (crux of pitch). Continue on easier terrain to a bolted anchor. (Gear to a #4 Camalot.)

Pitch 3: 10; from the anchor, continue up and left to a right-facing corner. This pitch is steep and strenuous, but good gear is available throughout. Exit through a slot sort of thing to a bolted rappel anchor. (Gear to a #4 Friend or so.)

Location

This is located just left of Topaz slab. The start is a small, broken corner. Look for a rightward-trending line of bolts about 40 feet up.

Protection

Trad first 30 feet, then bolts. Good anchors.

Photos

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First ascent of Alienist by Scott Sills and Janice Harnak. Jun 3, 2008
kevin fox
parker
 
kevin fox   parker
 
Fun route but felt harder than 10b. Jul 25, 2009
Try climbing Scott's routes at Thrillseekers. You learn to ignore the posted grade and just evaluate the holds and guess if it's in your range. Jul 25, 2009
Climbed pitch 1 of this route yesterday, and it really needs someone to go and take a wire brush to it. There were a lot of lichens over some of the face climbing parts, so that added to my anxiety level as a leader. The bolts also seem positioned way off to the right. I think calling this 10c instead of 10b would be appropriate. Otherwise, it was a good pitch. Jun 10, 2013

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