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Routes in The Headstone

Alienist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chickenhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clouds of Jupiter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Epitaph, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Haus Flake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Head Games T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Io S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Noble Savage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rampart Rage, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Razor Burn S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Remote Control S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Nazi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scratchy Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slab Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Topaz S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
V-Slaught, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Richard Wright, 1998 FFA: Jason Haas, 2009
Page Views: 1,002 total, 5/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

A project was started to the right of the Rampart Rage that has not yet seen its crux done free. It has been led by myself (R. Wright) several times and has always produced a hang with an A0 pull past the crux. I have done the crux on a top rope, and it certainly goes free at close to 5.12d, perhaps a bit harder. The route is pretty cool, and since I never red tag anything, the FFA is open to anyone who wants to give it a shot. The Project starts on the ledge 100ft up The Headstone. Approach via "Remote Control" on the right. A double bolt belay has been placed at the base of The Rampart Rage on the left. Double ropes rap to the ground from here, or you can pick up a mid point rap half way down. The Project starts off in a very shallow, left-facing corner and moves up on good holds for 50ft or so to the crux. The crux involves a hard (5.12d) move on a very sloping ramp leading to another very long reach to a good ledge. The target is a clean but sharp crack that marks the end of the difficult climbing. From the crack to the anchor involves a bit of 5.11 climbing and some fun 5.10. Three stars for climbing moves, the continuity, and the position, and firing straight through the brilliant, yellow headwall.

Protection

QD only. Approach via Remote Control, which is a sport route.

Photos

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Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Nice job, Jason. In checking the original posting date, I was a little shocked to see when the line was first tried. Alan Nelson and I had plans to get back and finish this up before life interrupted with moves, divorces, and fractured living!! Tod would be most likely to know if anyone else had red pointed, although it seems unlikely since nothing has been posted in the intervening period. Alan and I had both run through on TR freeing all the moves but never running a red point burn. I thought the climbing was pretty good overall and typical of the great rock at Devil's Head. Aug 4, 2009
Jason Haas
5.12c
Jason Haas  
5.12c
I sent this route earlier this week. According to Richard Wright (the bolter) and Tod Anderson (guidebook author), it hadn't been done before. Hard to believe such a quality line has sat as an open project for so long, but I'll claim the FA if no one else will and call it "Who Haas Done It?" as a pun since I'll be surprised if someone else doesn't come out of the wood work and claim an earlier ascent. Good line, worth doing and thanks for bolting it Richard. Aug 1, 2009
Real life SUCKS big time Richard!!!!! Jul 7, 2005
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Yeah, I can't believe it myself. The problem here is not the climbing per se; sooner or later we'll get done. The main problem is in finding the partners to persist with something that is difficult for me. There are loads of stong climbers that would probably flash it - for me it's a labour of love that requires some work. In some respects, this is what has made Tod so successful up here at The Head. He has always managed to find the partners to get everything redpointed, even when he had to work the route. Unfortunately, when Alan moved, I lost the most consistent and energetic partner I had. Given the amount of time I can spend at The Head, with limited partners available for the task, it seems most reasonable to open the red point up to other climbers. Somethimes I think that "real life" sucks - big time - it steals your life and wrecks your plans. In the end, I'll bet that the route goes at a bit less than originally imagined, and if someones scores it first I'm certainly not in a position to cry over it. I'll always have it in mind, and when time permits I'll get on it with just as much enthusiasm as we did originally. Jul 21, 2003
willem  
Careful of the fractured undercling midway up. The route should clean up nicely. We TR'd it after finishing the 10a to the left. I can't believe no one has redpointed this yet! Jul 20, 2003