Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|FA:||Richard Wright, 1998 FFA: Jason Haas, 2009|
|Page Views:||1,043 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on Mar 18, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
A project was started to the right of the Rampart Rage that has not yet seen its crux done free. It has been led by myself (R. Wright) several times and has always produced a hang with an A0 pull past the crux. I have done the crux on a top rope, and it certainly goes free at close to 5.12d, perhaps a bit harder. The route is pretty cool, and since I never red tag anything, the FFA is open to anyone who wants to give it a shot. The Project starts on the ledge 100ft up The Headstone. Approach via "Remote Control" on the right. A double bolt belay has been placed at the base of The Rampart Rage on the left. Double ropes rap to the ground from here, or you can pick up a mid point rap half way down. The Project starts off in a very shallow, left-facing corner and moves up on good holds for 50ft or so to the crux. The crux involves a hard (5.12d) move on a very sloping ramp leading to another very long reach to a good ledge. The target is a clean but sharp crack that marks the end of the difficult climbing. From the crack to the anchor involves a bit of 5.11 climbing and some fun 5.10. Three stars for climbing moves, the continuity, and the position, and firing straight through the brilliant, yellow headwall.
QD only. Approach via Remote Control, which is a sport route.
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